Looks like I'm going to be getting an R3 block p5007360ab 49 degree 8.90-9.25 deck siamese bore, max bore 4.22. I've never messed with anything other than production blocks so I really don't know what I'm getting myself into?! I would like to run a set of the edelbrock victor heads, which on paper look pretty damn good to me, don't even know if it's possible to get them on there
I absolutely hate indy so they're out. I'm not made of money so this will be a piece at a time build. Not gonna be a drag race engine, will probably wind up in a 4x4 mud racer with the intent of whooping up on some big block gm.

Anyway does someone want to start with that little bit of info and help build an engine??

When you say 49 degree, is this an altered 48 degree block?
48 degree block is a much better starting point for a performance build. No lifter clearance problems or port intrusion from pushrod pinch. Cam cores can be hard to find depending on journal size. Intake lifter location is spread wider for pushrod angle correction over the 59 degree blocks.
Some of these low deck r3 48 degree blocks are dry sump oiling only, so I hope you are prepared for that. Also be prepared to part with some cash with rocker assys for this deal.
Also if i recall correctly, the waterpump/ timing cover is different on the low deck height blocks.

Yes I meant 48 degree. I'm on my phone lol. It is dry sump which I'm told is not hard or exspensive to machine for wet sump. The cam bearings are 60mm. Like I said I'm out of my league here and wondering if the good deal on the block is worth it. $1500 for the block

Is this a wet or dry sump block would bore it
to 4.185 and a then decide what stroke you
want.. that bore is chevy.. are you gonna go
injection or not

Yes it dry sump. Does anyone know about converting it to wet sump. Dry sump absolutely will not work for me. It will have to be carbed

With roller bearing cam bearings you are going to have the lifter bores drilled and tapped for restrictors for push rod oiling. I built a 9.20 deck, 4" stroke 6" rod. Comes out to 440 topped off with shady dell w9's. Made around 740 hp pump gas.Check out shady dells webs site, explains plenty.

My R3 was a dry sump and I built it that way..
W-9 heads

Dry sump and mud just ain't gonna mix

If you are just doing the build for mud bogging fun lke your saying...... what you are embarking on is a very expensive journey.
Just in heads and rocker gear you will have well North of 5 grand, everything else is expensive too.

Doubt i would go down that path just for kicks. Could build a 360/408 combo with heads and all for what you would have just in the top end of this thing.

I have a used 48 degree block and assembly that I haven’t touched yet. I have a 59 degree R3 in my black Duster. I posted some pictures of it while I was building it and another Moparts member suggested putting more oil drain back oil holes In The intake valley. Th previous owner drilled some but I drilled several bigger holes. I also bought an accumulator but it wasn’t needed

I assume there is a way to take a dry sump block and
turn it into a wet sump.. I never did it

Some of these guys are running engines upwards of 25,000. It's get pretty serious, it's not just throwing a lil mud around. We go out of state to races. If you want to see what I'm talking about check out AMRA mud racing page on facebook. Or search horseshoe mud racing on youtube.

I was reading something on it earlier but damned if I can find it now

The class I would be in would be 800-1000hp trucks running a 1/4 mile long horseshoe shaped mud track. I know I'm not going to best route to win. I just want to build a stout small block dodge and put some dents in some chevys. This is a rough sport and the truck body and chassis gets replaced every couple years.

Some pretty good info.



http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/312/312-P4876381AB.pdf

Yes it is but no mention of this block. I think I'm going to pass on it even though it's cheap. If I were building a drag car I'd jump all over it but it just ain't gonna work for me

This is the oil pump on my R3 dry sump block. Pick-up welded through the side of the pan, external oil lines to the pump, from pump to external filter & then from filter to the blocks oil passage port at the front/top. I'll post pics if I can find them.

http://pumps.scpdrysumps.com/

Couple pics. I don't have any that show the pump but this shows the basic set-up.

Not speaking for the OP, but I think the dry sump problem would be the fact that it is belt driven. I can see why in mud you wouldn’t want a belt driven pump.
I do like your work around! Sort of a hybrid dry/wet system

Send the block to Ryan J at shady dell speed shop he has a cnc program to make that block with all the oil returns and drill the oilpassage and rear main cap to make it oil like a regular block your big expense is going to be in the heads and rocker gear a set of pistons is the same price as is the crank and rods call Rod bloomer and get his 3.79 crank 4.185 bore your at 417 cubic inch king bearings make a bearing to make a 340 main fit in the block most 60 MM have Ford main size pm if you need some help just builds the same motor