Looks like I'm going to be getting an R3 block p5007360ab 49 degree 8.90-9.25 deck siamese bore, max bore 4.22. I've never messed with anything other than production blocks so I really don't know what I'm getting myself into?! I would like to run a set of the edelbrock victor heads, which on paper look pretty damn good to me, don't even know if it's possible to get them on there
I absolutely hate indy so they're out. I'm not made of money so this will be a piece at a time build. Not gonna be a drag race engine, will probably wind up in a 4x4 mud racer with the intent of whooping up on some big block gm.

Anyway does someone want to start with that little bit of info and help build an engine??

When you say 49 degree, is this an altered 48 degree block?
48 degree block is a much better starting point for a performance build. No lifter clearance problems or port intrusion from pushrod pinch. Cam cores can be hard to find depending on journal size. Intake lifter location is spread wider for pushrod angle correction over the 59 degree blocks.
Some of these low deck r3 48 degree blocks are dry sump oiling only, so I hope you are prepared for that. Also be prepared to part with some cash with rocker assys for this deal.
Also if i recall correctly, the waterpump/ timing cover is different on the low deck height blocks.

Yes I meant 48 degree. I'm on my phone lol. It is dry sump which I'm told is not hard or exspensive to machine for wet sump. The cam bearings are 60mm. Like I said I'm out of my league here and wondering if the good deal on the block is worth it. $1500 for the block

Is this a wet or dry sump block would bore it
to 4.185 and a then decide what stroke you
want.. that bore is chevy.. are you gonna go
injection or not

Yes it dry sump. Does anyone know about converting it to wet sump. Dry sump absolutely will not work for me. It will have to be carbed

With roller bearing cam bearings you are going to have the lifter bores drilled and tapped for restrictors for push rod oiling. I built a 9.20 deck, 4" stroke 6" rod. Comes out to 440 topped off with shady dell w9's. Made around 740 hp pump gas.Check out shady dells webs site, explains plenty.

My R3 was a dry sump and I built it that way..
W-9 heads

Dry sump and mud just ain't gonna mix

If you are just doing the build for mud bogging fun lke your saying...... what you are embarking on is a very expensive journey.
Just in heads and rocker gear you will have well North of 5 grand, everything else is expensive too.

Doubt i would go down that path just for kicks. Could build a 360/408 combo with heads and all for what you would have just in the top end of this thing.

I have a used 48 degree block and assembly that I haven’t touched yet. I have a 59 degree R3 in my black Duster. I posted some pictures of it while I was building it and another Moparts member suggested putting more oil drain back oil holes In The intake valley. Th previous owner drilled some but I drilled several bigger holes. I also bought an accumulator but it wasn’t needed

I assume there is a way to take a dry sump block and
turn it into a wet sump.. I never did it

Some of these guys are running engines upwards of 25,000. It's get pretty serious, it's not just throwing a lil mud around. We go out of state to races. If you want to see what I'm talking about check out AMRA mud racing page on facebook. Or search horseshoe mud racing on youtube.

I was reading something on it earlier but damned if I can find it now

The class I would be in would be 800-1000hp trucks running a 1/4 mile long horseshoe shaped mud track. I know I'm not going to best route to win. I just want to build a stout small block dodge and put some dents in some chevys. This is a rough sport and the truck body and chassis gets replaced every couple years.

Some pretty good info.



http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/312/312-P4876381AB.pdf

Yes it is but no mention of this block. I think I'm going to pass on it even though it's cheap. If I were building a drag car I'd jump all over it but it just ain't gonna work for me

This is the oil pump on my R3 dry sump block. Pick-up welded through the side of the pan, external oil lines to the pump, from pump to external filter & then from filter to the blocks oil passage port at the front/top. I'll post pics if I can find them.

http://pumps.scpdrysumps.com/

Couple pics. I don't have any that show the pump but this shows the basic set-up.

Not speaking for the OP, but I think the dry sump problem would be the fact that it is belt driven. I can see why in mud you wouldn’t want a belt driven pump.
I do like your work around! Sort of a hybrid dry/wet system

Send the block to Ryan J at shady dell speed shop he has a cnc program to make that block with all the oil returns and drill the oilpassage and rear main cap to make it oil like a regular block your big expense is going to be in the heads and rocker gear a set of pistons is the same price as is the crank and rods call Rod bloomer and get his 3.79 crank 4.185 bore your at 417 cubic inch king bearings make a bearing to make a 340 main fit in the block most 60 MM have Ford main size pm if you need some help just builds the same motor

I'll give him a call. Yea the belt drive is the concern, motor compartment would be sealed as tight as possible but some will still get through. I'm thinking a 4.180 crank and 4.185 bore. Being a 4x I need some torque. This engine will probably end up in my 87 D150 after I race it some.

Or does anyone still offer the 4.25 stroke crankshaft?

You dont need a belt drive you can use a 9 inch timing cover and you will have a hard time getting any thing bigger then a 4 inch crank in a 9 inch deck block

Member here BPE sell them. Have one in my R3 W9 deal.

This is my opinion so take it as you want.
Build an G3 Not an R3. The stock heads are more than enough to support what YOUR looking for now and the blocks are as tough as the R3 and you can get them anywhere. CNC the heads down the road and NO Victor small block head will touch it.
The thing with the G3 is that there is TONS of parts. Break something and Your not hunting for Hens teeth.
Once again Just my opinion.
If your going with the R3 and using indy heads or W2 I have new in the box TD rockers shaft mounted 1.65 ratio.
Matt

I would think a good starting point would be get the block completely measured up figure out what the true deck height is. Don't rush into anything.. sort out your exact path. I think if you could build an enclosure for a single stage external pump.. you would be better off. I know if I was going to keep an engine at an extremely high RPM for a long period Of time I would definitely want an external pump.. good luck and keep us posted on your progress..

Cant run a hemi. As with every racing association the rules are extremely chevy biased.

Please explain

I think there was a little mix-up between belt drive oil pump & belt drive timing gear.
There are low deck blocks use a special front cover. These front covers do not accept a stock type water pump, only electric pumps.
There are also belt drive cam gear set-ups. Big bucks.

Yes I'm having a hard time finding out which this is since it is discontinued.

I'm going to build something else. If someone wants this block I can put you in contact with the seller. If it fits someone's desires I think $1500 for a new block is cheap

Call Shadydell and talk to Ryan he can explain everything to you or Brett Miller just dont give up there are some very smart guys out there making big power with these engines its like building a new house you need a good foundation so start with a race block ck out ryans web page some good info over there shadydell.com

Ryan is doing machine work on my 9.20 deck r3 now. I was told by him that any stroke bigger then 3.79 will need the counterweight of the crank turned down in a short deck block.

My 4” Molnar fit my 9.20 block....

I ran a 4.00 Callie’s in a 9.3 deck and had plenty of room

I think I'm going to drop down a class and cheat. How about a 426 in a production block with a solid roller and a set of W2 heads? The class rules are factory heads and a hydraulic flat tappet. But if I'm gonna run against big blocks I don't stand a chance running those. Most everyone is cheating so I don't feel bad about it. I don't think anyone will notice the w2 heads because no one runs a small block mopar. Trick is gonna be getting it to pull 14" vacuum at 1000 rpm