I'll give him a call. Yea the belt drive is the concern, motor compartment would be sealed as tight as possible but some will still get through. I'm thinking a 4.180 crank and 4.185 bore. Being a 4x I need some torque. This engine will probably end up in my 87 D150 after I race it some.

Or does anyone still offer the 4.25 stroke crankshaft?

You dont need a belt drive you can use a 9 inch timing cover and you will have a hard time getting any thing bigger then a 4 inch crank in a 9 inch deck block

Member here BPE sell them. Have one in my R3 W9 deal.

This is my opinion so take it as you want.
Build an G3 Not an R3. The stock heads are more than enough to support what YOUR looking for now and the blocks are as tough as the R3 and you can get them anywhere. CNC the heads down the road and NO Victor small block head will touch it.
The thing with the G3 is that there is TONS of parts. Break something and Your not hunting for Hens teeth.
Once again Just my opinion.
If your going with the R3 and using indy heads or W2 I have new in the box TD rockers shaft mounted 1.65 ratio.
Matt

I would think a good starting point would be get the block completely measured up figure out what the true deck height is. Don't rush into anything.. sort out your exact path. I think if you could build an enclosure for a single stage external pump.. you would be better off. I know if I was going to keep an engine at an extremely high RPM for a long period Of time I would definitely want an external pump.. good luck and keep us posted on your progress..

Cant run a hemi. As with every racing association the rules are extremely chevy biased.

Please explain

I think there was a little mix-up between belt drive oil pump & belt drive timing gear.
There are low deck blocks use a special front cover. These front covers do not accept a stock type water pump, only electric pumps.
There are also belt drive cam gear set-ups. Big bucks.

Yes I'm having a hard time finding out which this is since it is discontinued.

I'm going to build something else. If someone wants this block I can put you in contact with the seller. If it fits someone's desires I think $1500 for a new block is cheap

Call Shadydell and talk to Ryan he can explain everything to you or Brett Miller just dont give up there are some very smart guys out there making big power with these engines its like building a new house you need a good foundation so start with a race block ck out ryans web page some good info over there shadydell.com

Ryan is doing machine work on my 9.20 deck r3 now. I was told by him that any stroke bigger then 3.79 will need the counterweight of the crank turned down in a short deck block.

My 4” Molnar fit my 9.20 block....

I ran a 4.00 Callie’s in a 9.3 deck and had plenty of room

I think I'm going to drop down a class and cheat. How about a 426 in a production block with a solid roller and a set of W2 heads? The class rules are factory heads and a hydraulic flat tappet. But if I'm gonna run against big blocks I don't stand a chance running those. Most everyone is cheating so I don't feel bad about it. I don't think anyone will notice the w2 heads because no one runs a small block mopar. Trick is gonna be getting it to pull 14" vacuum at 1000 rpm