I have the Slant/6 Torsion Bars in my ‘69 GTX, and the front end is just to low, and is at the end of the adjusters...wont go any higher.

Since my car is a street/strip car should I buy the .920 MP Torsion bar, which may be a little stiffer than my current TB set, that I think is what Mopar Performance calls the “Hemi Torsion Bars”, or just go with the .960 (stock Ride Height), but still the Mopar performance bar.

Thank you for any advise you all might have!

Mark

I also do NOT plan on running an Anti-Roll bar on the front, since I do want some lift for weight transfer on launch...still a street strip and the car does weigh 3500 lbs.

When I replace the front strut bars, they were bent quite a bit, and I think that street driving with the slant/6 bars at such a droop may have caused it?

Mark

I used massive circle track t bars (all I had ex for some /6 bars) on a SB daily driver 65 dart (002/003 springs) & it rode high & tight. It was good

Thanks Robert, but I just want to order a set of bars that will support my front end, and still allow some travel for launch at the strip...just a good set of all around bars.

Mancini sells 3-4 sets of Mopar Performance torsion bars.

Mark

Buy the 318 B body torsion bars if you want a higher ride height and still have a lot of front end rise at WOT

Sway bar has little if any effect on front end lift on the drag strip. Sure makes the car handle better on the street.
Go with a standard B body RB engine torsion bar and a looser extension shock and forget about it.

Spend time getting the rear suspension to hook the car.

I have caltracs, mono leafs, spring sliders, and caltrac front shocks. I also have caltrac front shocks.

I just want to select the right Mopar Performance torsion bar set that I can drive on the street too.

thanks transman, cab, and all!

Here is the link:

http://www.manciniracing.com/search-resu...p;Submit=Search

just doing regular slow poke street driving and then some drag racing, i would run the .920 bars.

Verifying for reference: Is the .920 considered a stock small block bar, and .960 a big block bar? Or is it more complicated than this?

Good point StealthWedge67!

.920" big block bar.

small block bar is more like .860 or .870
my 67 coronet had the factory 318 bars in and i couldn't get the pass side very far off the bump stop after i put SS springs on the car.

i put some .960 bars on it and some bilstein shocks and the front is pretty dang firm now.

according to this, my bars should've been .880"
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/attachments/torsion-252520bars-jpg.282689/

383/426 bars are .900"
440/hemi bars are .920"
Improved handling is .960"

there is also this chart...

I would replace the worn /6 torsion bars with a new set of /6 torsion bars.

The slant 6 bars are fairly new, however it looks like the .920 or .960 bar would give a better ride height.

I think I will go with the .920 bars, since I drive the car on the street, unless I hear a reason that I should go with the .960 bars.

Thank you for all of the advice!

Bought the Mopar Performance .960 bars from Jegs today, and I have a couple of questions:

1) with the adjusters all the way out, do I put the bars in so the line on the back of the bar is vertical?

2) I read where they want the lower bumper stop removed prior to install???

3) any other pointers would be very helpful...

Thank you all!

Mark

PS: also bought the QA1 Tubular upper control arms to get the extra 3* of castor for better high speed stability.

I have the 318 Tbars on my wagon. This is a big block car and at 4000lbs. The adjusteres are set at about 50%. These are also 50 yrs old. I also drive on the street w/caltracs. No problem. The only item for street driving I may change out is the front shocks. The Rancho front shocks really come up fast even under light excelleration.

Disconnect the lower ball joint(remove the bolts to the spindle) so the lower control arm will drop down as much as needed to install those new bars without fighting them Z Back both adjusters all the way out first also
As far as the lines I think they need to be towards the trans cross member, not to the K member and on the alignment I am no help on that. I have never seen anything in any of the FSM about positioning them a set way
Make sure and put the L bar on the drivers side, R bar on the other side

make sure the bars are on the correct side, there is a L and R bar, the part numbers will be different.
the hexes are indexed a little and if you swap them your ride height will be all wrong.

i have done like Cab mentioned and unbolted the spindle from the ball joint to get travel in the lower arm, but i was swapping strut rods so the whole arm had to slide almost all the way out.
i think if i removed the upper bump stop that would've dropped the lower control arms enough to slide the bars in.

i usually just install the bars so the line in the bar is vertical.
when it's in the rear crossmember.

don't forget to the do the final torque on the LCA nuts and the strut rods when the car is at ride height.

there is a service manual method for setting ride height.
if i rememeber correctly, you measure from the ground to the lowest point on the lower control arm torsion bar pivot arm, the little arm that rides on the ride height screw. measure from the bottom of that round part that is sandwiched in between the sides of the LCA.
and also measure from the ground to the bottom of the lower ball joint.

the difference should be 1-1/8" roughly...

oh you are swapping the upper control arms.

just slide the torsion bars in the LCA when the upper arms are unbolted.
make sure the adjusters are the screwed all the way out so they are loose in the arm. the LCA will rotate down until it touches the K-member.

from there, you should be able to rotate down torsion bar pivot blade in the LCA by hand, that makes it easy to align the hexes on the bar and LCA socket.
if they are hard to rotate then I would also loosen the bolts on LCA pivot pin to make it easier.

The torsion bars don't really have a front/rear, but i install them so i can see the part number at the torsion bar crossmember.

once the torsion bars are starting to slide in the arms, the hexes are aligned and all that, i use a piece of wood in the rear of the bar, tap it with a hammer to slide the bars into the sockets.
I also clean the sockets out and put a some fresh clean grease in there.

One other question I have, should I run the tubular front sway bar, since the car is a street strip car? Hotchkis make a tubular lighter weight bar kit that looks very nice?

Any thoughts?

Thank you, Mark