Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: nd65]
#2347120
08/02/17 03:05 AM
08/02/17 03:05 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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For those that have used a factory electronic ignition, how did you wire it for fuel only?
I am soldering all my connections and put an Aeromotive Phantom pump in my tank.
nd65 So four wires to deal with(I dont have a fan or anything to the other two wires). Blue= (-) on coil Red= direct to my battery Orange= direct to fuel pump White (the one you're really asking about)= to my old choke wiring that has 12V at all times. Although I think I'm going to change the white to a switch inside the car that I turn on before I crank it over and turn off after I turn it off. So it will be the white wire to a switch and the switch to the battery. Basically a killswitch. I'm going to wrap the blue wire with some of this: https://www.designengineering.com//categ...inized-sleevingTo help keep out an "RPM Noise" fault that occasionally shows up. Right now it has aluminum foil.
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Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: BDW]
#2347372
08/02/17 04:00 PM
08/02/17 04:00 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 529 SW CO
HemiSportFury
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 529
SW CO
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"Best improvement I found in my application was to set the idle AFR very lean. Really cleaned up the exhaust and improved vacuum. Throttle response is great!"
What parameter did you change and what setting did you end up with? I still have some exhaust smell I'd like to reduce. I set the idle AFR as high as it would go, 16. I know that sounds lean but that's a tip I picked up on the Chevelle Only web site. Great resource if you haven't visited it. I also adjusted the low RPM setting up 100 RPM to 1200, since my idle is pretty high already and the low RPM AFR setting will start adding fuel. Probably won't be necessary unless your idle is high.
'64 Sport Fury, 528 Hemi, FiTech EFI, 4-speed, 4.10 Dana 60 '57 Belvedere 2dr sedan, current project in process '19 Cherokee Trail Hawk Elite '03 Ram 2500 CTD HO, 6-speed 214,000 miles and still going strong
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Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: nd65]
#2347491
08/02/17 09:42 PM
08/02/17 09:42 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 468 Dirty Dena, Maryland
dodge turbo
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 468
Dirty Dena, Maryland
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Check to verify that tbe white wire is seeing 12v during cranking. Not just keyed 12v. Its has to see 12v while cranking to show rpm to fire the injectors or it is only firing iff the pump shot when cold. Believe me ive been down this road. That choke wire may not see 12v while you are cranking on the starter. Just use a test light while cranking
78 Adventurer 150small block turbo'd 360w/Borg S475....smoke'em
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Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: nd65]
#2347829
08/03/17 01:04 PM
08/03/17 01:04 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,013 near Kansas City
igozumn
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,013
near Kansas City
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68KB, sorry I did not get your PM notification, but I will post the response here. I have the white wire connected to the input side of the ballast. I have the Mopar Performance electronic conversion setup. I over-analyzed the 12v supply while cranking issue so far as to take my old ignition switch and put a jumper on with the ohmmeter to see if there was a break between crank and run. There was. I know others, other makes, have done whatever (without issue) and there's no way to know if every single switch for all the different makes has or doesn't have a break between run and crank. So, I did the only rational thing which was to put a spring switch in the old choke cable bracket. Turn the ignition on, so 12v is at the ballast. Push the "start" button.
I have had no issues starting that could be traced to the IGNITION not having a full 12v during cranking. That is what the ballast, or more specifically, the ballast bypass, is for. The engineers wanted it that way. But again, I haven't had issues with regards to just the ignition not having 12 volts while I crank the engine.
I don't think the Fitech would have issue with a split second break between/while switching from crank to run, but didn't want to take a chance. The push start switch is not elegant. But the rest of the car isn't either.
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Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: larrymopar360]
#2348020
08/03/17 05:47 PM
08/03/17 05:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
master
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master
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Missouri
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Does anybody know how to make/read the tach filter that is posted by Barkfin on the dippy website, page 4. The squiggles and lines make no sense to me. Got in car today and it starts right up and runs fine. If the RPM filter doesnt work, its bye to the old(year old ugh) ignition system.
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Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: nd65]
#2348076
08/03/17 07:29 PM
08/03/17 07:29 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,748 Florida
BDW
master
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master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,748
Florida
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Those lines are resistors and capacitors
I'm running fuel only, from everything I read, probably staying that way. I don't want to spend more money on another distributor.
Last edited by cnxt; 08/03/17 07:31 PM.
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Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#2348078
08/03/17 07:35 PM
08/03/17 07:35 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889 up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
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About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
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Does anybody know how to make/read the tach filter that is posted by Barkfin on the dippy website, page 4. The squiggles and lines make no sense to me.
I understand it but maybe it's easier to buy it already made http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/9219.cfm
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question. They say there is always the exception that proves the rule. Don't be the exception.
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Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: 68KillerBee]
#2348130
08/03/17 09:45 PM
08/03/17 09:45 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,146 New Mexico
UCUDANT
Troll Hunter
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Troll Hunter
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,146
New Mexico
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Kept reading 0 rpm when cranking. Possibly my battery is going under the 12V the ECU needs to run. I read something on this very recently. Check the tach signal and I aslo think they did mention to ensure battery voltage is good Here's a thermal wrap I found with velcro http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-10-Aluminum-Me...er/361710730838
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Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: UCUDANT]
#2348227
08/04/17 12:13 AM
08/04/17 12:13 AM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Kept reading 0 rpm when cranking. Possibly my battery is going under the 12V the ECU needs to run. I read something on this very recently. Check the tach signal and I aslo think they did mention to ensure battery voltage is good Here's a thermal wrap I found with velcro http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-10-Aluminum-Me...er/361710730838 I ordered some of that wrap by seeing your previous posts. I appreciate all the responses and have been reading so much I'm logging off the web for tonight. I'm going to call the local corvette place in the morning to see if they have a filter. http://www.rodneydickman.com/CorvetteTachFilter.html I'll get his $25 shipped version if they don't. Just adds to the time crunch of the Nationals. I just asked about making them because I'm sure it only costs a few bucks to make it and could do it myself. Hopefully the OP has found his answer and maybe this thread will help others in the future.
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Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: nd65]
#2348581
08/04/17 06:50 PM
08/04/17 06:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
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Missouri
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Mine works fine to my 12volt source I had to the carb choke. I'm gonna attempt to take mine to a cruise tonight. I put a tach filter on it and so far it reads fine. We shall see. I got a tow rope in the trunk just in case. This is thanks to larrymopar360 sending a PM to the guy who mentioned it on the dippy site he provided. That guy sent me an email and I luckily found one at a performance shop that had them in stock. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cin-sn20Thanks again. Everyone
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Re: Fitech guys. Got a few questions.
[Re: BDW]
#2348989
08/05/17 02:47 PM
08/05/17 02:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445 Missouri
68KillerBee
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 6,445
Missouri
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Anyone run the cables for the controller through the firewall? I have mine just routed through the driver window since it's temporary. Might be nice to have it tucked under dash for future use if needed.
I have mine running through the speedo cable hole/grommet. Too bad it couldn't hook up wirelessly. But running last night was nice to watch temp, RPM, AFR and battery voltage at all time.
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