So four wires to deal with(I dont have a fan or anything to the other two wires).

Blue= (-) on coil
Red= direct to my battery
Orange= direct to fuel pump
White (the one you're really asking about)= to my old choke wiring that has 12V at all times.

Although I think I'm going to change the white to a switch inside the car that I turn on before I crank it over and turn off after I turn it off. So it will be the white wire to a switch and the switch to the battery. Basically a killswitch.

I'm going to wrap the blue wire with some of this:
https://www.designengineering.com//categ...inized-sleeving
To help keep out an "RPM Noise" fault that occasionally shows up. Right now it has aluminum foil.

Well it's back to making me mad. I keep trying it out at night now, less traffic and easier walk back home. One cop stopped tonight but was really nice and told me to give them a call if I needed a ride home, but I just walked.

First time it was im guessing low voltage on my battery. Second time, I'm unsure. Monday night I drove it around 30 miles and had no issues until I was going up a hill to my driveway and it died. Finally restarted. Today I discovered one of the ports on the back lost its cap so I recapped it and the numbers were all looking a lot better. Took it out, stopped a got some gas, then it died. Kept reading 0 rpm when cranking. Possibly my battery is going under the 12V the ECU needs to run. Or its more of the RPM noise stuff as occasionally when I would crank it the numbers would show up and it would start and then die.
I'm just going to order the distributor that Pace performance recommends. Figured I'd make it to a car cruise Friday, but doubt it anymore. Hopefully I get it squared away so I can bring to the Nationals or else I'm going to install my adjustable fuel pressure regulator I already bought and put the carburetor back on(bought it in case I would have these issues and I would keep a spare carburetor in the trunk until I trusted the system).

I set the idle AFR as high as it would go, 16. I know that sounds lean but that's a tip I picked up on the Chevelle Only web site. Great resource if you haven't visited it. I also adjusted the low RPM setting up 100 RPM to 1200, since my idle is pretty high already and the low RPM AFR setting will start adding fuel. Probably won't be necessary unless your idle is high.

Check to verify that tbe white wire is seeing 12v during cranking. Not just keyed 12v. Its has to see 12v while cranking to show rpm to fire the injectors or it is only firing iff the pump shot when cold. Believe me ive been down this road. That choke wire may not see 12v while you are cranking on the starter. Just use a test light while cranking

Some of this thread MIGHT be helpful too, especially later pages.

http://www.dippy.org/forum2/index.php?topic=15951.0

68KB, sorry I did not get your PM notification, but I will post the response here. I have the white wire connected to the input side of the ballast. I have the Mopar Performance electronic conversion setup. I over-analyzed the 12v supply while cranking issue so far as to take my old ignition switch and put a jumper on with the ohmmeter to see if there was a break between crank and run. There was. I know others, other makes, have done whatever (without issue) and there's no way to know if every single switch for all the different makes has or doesn't have a break between run and crank. So, I did the only rational thing which was to put a spring switch in the old choke cable bracket. Turn the ignition on, so 12v is at the ballast. Push the "start" button.

I have had no issues starting that could be traced to the IGNITION not having a full 12v during cranking. That is what the ballast, or more specifically, the ballast bypass, is for. The engineers wanted it that way. But again, I haven't had issues with regards to just the ignition not having 12 volts while I crank the engine.

I don't think the Fitech would have issue with a split second break between/while switching from crank to run, but didn't want to take a chance. The push start switch is not elegant. But the rest of the car isn't either.

Does anybody know how to make/read the tach filter that is posted by Barkfin on the dippy website, page 4. The squiggles and lines make no sense to me.

Got in car today and it starts right up and runs fine. If the RPM filter doesnt work, its bye to the old(year old ugh) ignition system.

For anyone else that is following this thread, my FiTech is controlling fuel only.

Those lines are resistors and capacitors

I'm running fuel only, from everything I read, probably staying that way.
I don't want to spend more money on another distributor.

I understand it but maybe it's easier to buy it already made

http://www.marshallinstruments.com/products/9219.cfm

I read something on this very recently. Check the tach signal and I aslo think they did mention to ensure battery voltage is good

Here's a thermal wrap I found with velcro
http://www.ebay.com/itm/X-10-Aluminum-Me...er/361710730838

I ordered some of that wrap by seeing your previous posts.

I appreciate all the responses and have been reading so much I'm logging off the web for tonight. I'm going to call the local corvette place in the morning to see if they have a filter. http://www.rodneydickman.com/CorvetteTachFilter.html I'll get his $25 shipped version if they don't. Just adds to the time crunch of the Nationals. I just asked about making them because I'm sure it only costs a few bucks to make it and could do it myself.

Hopefully the OP has found his answer and maybe this thread will help others in the future.

Is this the ignition post you were seeking? https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...tml#Post2341186

Mine works fine to my 12volt source I had to the carb choke.

I'm gonna attempt to take mine to a cruise tonight. I put a tach filter on it and so far it reads fine. We shall see. I got a tow rope in the trunk just in case. This is thanks to larrymopar360 sending a PM to the guy who mentioned it on the dippy site he provided. That guy sent me an email and I luckily found one at a performance shop that had them in stock.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cin-sn20

Thanks again. Everyone

Anyone run the cables for the controller through the firewall?
I have mine just routed through the driver window since it's temporary.
Might be nice to have it tucked under dash for future use if needed.

I have mine running through the speedo cable hole/grommet. Too bad it couldn't hook up wirelessly. But running last night was nice to watch temp, RPM, AFR and battery voltage at all time.