I plan to use a Milodon road race oil pan on with wedge. No room for a dry sump setup, so planning a dual external line Milodon pump, so would have to modify the pan for dual pickups. Any recommendations on keeping this engine properly oiled? The B1 heads drain through external lines to the pan. Windage tray recommendation? Should I block oil in the middle of the lifter valley and route to the back and front of the valley?
Thanks for your help, I cannot afford to learn the mistakes on my own!

I'm sure Al will see this and help you out...
but he runs aftermarket blocks to make them live
and priority oiling is a start.. and a dry sump
is another.. being that your playing on the salt
and will be at high rpm for minutes you WILL suck
a wet sump dry.. you better rethink your engine

Most Milodon pans come with a windage tray. I would also install a crankscraper. Not familiar with dry sumps to give any input.

Crank scraper as well. Also external booster oil supply like an accusump would be wise. B1 head oil return is a PITA. S/F....Ken M

Full groove main bearings, loose, not tight , bearing clearances,.003+ on both the rods and mains and plenty of oil in the pan set the bypass spring for .0010 per each thousand RPM with warm or hot oil

Do all the tricks you can to get the oil back to the pan, use a full synthetic oil, tends to slide off those surfaces better, grind all the little ridges off, chamfer all drain back holes, over fill the pan as much as it will allow, once it gets up to rpm there will be a lot of oil up there but still have some in reserve in pan. Once you learn that curve the windage can be sorted out. Good luck

Razor/ Missile enterprises dry sump. Make room.

Look at the fittings that go through the pan to the pickup, and make sure they aren't intruding on the available space for oil flow into the fitting from the pan. I had to cut off the AN tapered male seat on mine, and then bevel the entry for the best setup. You might want to consider an accusump as well.

You have a PM about this

Thats my opinion on this.. I dont know of any
pan that will hold enough oil for a few minutes
of WOT.. most guys complain about the low oil
when they hit the brakes on the top end.. thats
in 9-10 seconds on a BB

If this is a saltflat car then I'd be cutting all the baffles out of the pan - you want the oil to have easy access to the pickup(s).

Dual line ... I think I'd stick with a single. This ensures you don't empty the pan and suck air. There's no point in drawing in more oil than will fit up the block passage, it just goes out the bypass and any that can't go out the bypass is causing unnecessary drag on the pump.

I'd increase the size of the drains from the heads if possible and use teflon-lined lines to get the best flow possible.

What's this motor going in?

1969 Daytona clone. Thanks for the replies!

I would not suggest the roadrace pan for sustained RPM.It has a lot of internal structure in it and adding a second pickup would be a lot of work as well. Since that pan is almost 500 bones and still would need work why not call Charlies or Stefs and have them make you a pan to fit your needs? I agree with the above posters that a dry sump would be better. The Missle system would work. All you need is space for the sump tank. If your building a Daytona clone there is room up front for one. You just might need a custom sump tank which would not be that hard to fab. Hey you are going to the salt. Street and strip type systems are going to fall short and if you are going bucks down, you have to spend wisely.
Todd

Use an oil shedding compound inside the lifter valley and in the crank area like glyptol or some of the new ceramic stuff, that helps the oil get back to the pan. Tim

I remember seeing a photo of the valley of Dave Dudek's FAST hemi and all the holes down the center were closed up so the oil would only drain back at the front. This would keep the oil in a steady stream and ever though it would still get beat up by the front two rods, it would be a heavier/faster flow back to the pan.

Tell that to Dudek !!!

Seems counterproductive when you consider G force sending the oil backwards away from the opening at the distributor gear area.

Make sure you doctor up those Milodon fittings to radius the 90s. I wasn't impressed with the quality of their kits, perticularly the fittings exiting the oil pan. I'd either replace them with full flow 90 ANs or hog them out to take out the corner.

Also, if you're going to use the Glyptal paint, I'd suggest using EL601 Red Insulating Varnish spray can. It's $5 a can vs. Eastwood's $50 can and works just as well.

I Rustoleum Red damp Proof primer on the lifter valleys and timing cover areas after deburring them on all my iron Mopar motors

A39Coronet is that EL601 number also a Glyptal brand?

It is Sprayon brand.

R.