I have a 440. The crank is drilled but it doesn't have a bushing installed. It appears I need a 7/8 o.d. x 3/4 i.d.
Is this something I can find at the hardware store and just install.
Would I be better off to wait and get the roller bearing that fits in the converter hub opening

Why not just buy the correct bushing? You aren't going to find it at a hardware store but you can get it from a Mopar parts dealer.

It was something I was going to put in today and just noticed it. Is the hole in the crank finished/reamed to size for the bushing, its a 70's steel crank motor.

You might find the right bushing at the parts store, NAPA comes to mind.

there is a good chance your local auto parts store might have the correct one..... they did for my sisters mustang..

Some advice... Slide it over your transmission output shaft before installing to make sure it is correct..

Spent a week trying to install my friends new 289/4-speed in his 57 ford ( back in the day) before we had to pull it out to find out the ID of the bushing was too small.... LOL, but not funny back then.....

Most cranks are pilot drilled to .915" and then finally reamed to .9375" if a bushing is to be installed. Undersized bushings are available.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261638021109?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Or use the bearing/bushing that installs in the converter register.

I rebuilt a 383 once about 30 years ago that had the proper diameter recess in the crank, the pilot bushing fit, but the A833 would not - the hole wasn't deep enough! The crank had come out of an automatic car, apparently.

The hole was deep enough but not finish reamed in the steel crank of the '72 440 in my Diplomat. I just went and got one of the roller bearings like shown above at Advance Auto. Works just fine.

I have several other '72 440s and the regular bronze bushings have fit in em.

Most likely that crank would need pulled and finished to the proper size.

The late model style that kunkel shows are the way to go. And they should be available at a parts store.

Note, if the crank isn't drilled deep enough, you can trim the input shaft.

Or just drill the hole a little deeper (not finish size of course, just big enough for the input shaft tip to clear). That's what I did rather than take the whole bottom end apart again.

That's using your head.

I drilled and tapped that giant steel washer so I could easily pull it out. There's enough room for a 1/4-20 thread.

R.