Hi,are the intake bolts dry like the exhaust bolts or do they need RTV? Thanks, Pete

I don't use rtv on mine have not had a problem. what I noticed more was the length of the bolts being an issue (big block). to short and they don't go into the head enough, to long and they bottom out. I install mine with the valve covers off so that I can see the end of the bolt, see if its to short or to long. hope this helps.

I use arp intake hardware. I used anti-seize on the intake bolts. After quite a few miles it dribbles a little onto the valley tray from the passenger front bolt but not a lot.

I used arp as well with anti seize and am now buttoning everything up. Instructions just say bolt down. I want to fix now if I need to. I actually just read on a Mopar 499 Street Hero part 3 article on web that intake bolts are open to oil on top of cylinder head so he used PFTE thread sealer...

arp thread sealer works very well.

Ok, wasn't sure it was needed. Mine has been bolted up for two days. Am I safe to pull one bolt at a time, add sealer, and retorque?

As long as your using a PCV valve with a breather cap on the other side of the motor there shouldn't be any positive crankcase pressure to try and push oil up the threads of the intake bolts Torque the intake down to 30 to 35 lbs and make sure the bolts you use are long enough,(minumum of 1/2 inch of thread or more in the heads ) especially on aluminum heads
Any time I'm using steel bolts in aluminum I use antiseize to insure no galling

I have it torqued now to 35 and put antiseize on the ARP bolts. They were long enough. If there is an issue I will see oil on the valley pan, correct?
Thanks for the tips!

If you didn't put some thread sealer on those intake bolts, don't be surprised if you eventually find a small puddle of oil sitting on your valley pan.

Teflon tread sealer, no oil puddles.
Doug

I've assemble and ran a bunch of BB with stock iron heads and now with different brand and sizes of alumimun heads originally with oil only on the bolts with no issues.I started using anti seieze several years back on the intake bolts with aluminum heads and no issuues with that either

Update:
Got the car back together and started. Ran great... For about 15 seconds.
Poured oil out the valve covers. Oops, forgot to tighten them...
Poured gas on hot manifold. OMG! Fuel line must have cross threaded in carb? Will address it.
Started to blow white smoke out of passenger tail with significant wetness.Instantly thought head issue but I am hoping it is just all of the coolant that poured out of my head and block during my work that may have dumped right in to the collector. I am crossing my fingers.
Oil pressure good. Temperature was good. Oil is clean (no milky look). Idled great but sputtered thru carb whenI blipped the throttle. I am hoping that was from the fuel leak. I will get back at it in a few days and give another update.
If water is entering exhaust from engine, would it have to be from head? 440, Eddy head and Eddy CH4B manifold. Manifold should be dry..

Intake is dry and bolt holes on exhaust side as well so there is only a few places it can come from , thru a port wall, cracked cylinder, cracked head, or head gasket.

Thanks John. As I suspected...

So fixed fuel leak and realized I did not tighten up collectors so had major exhaust leak (ok, it was late and I am a rookie). Hopefully that was causing sputtering as it idles great. After I tighten those up I will get it outside and try to see if the white smoke stops..

For future reference, there are two pipe plugs, one on each side of the block, that you can remove to drain coolant out of the block and heads before you pull the heads. This will take most of the coolant out and minimize any coolant draining into the block/cylinders.

Thanks for the tip. That would have prevented the mes I made.

So if the head is leakingninto the cylineer would the white smoke appeaf immediately pon start up or could it take time to appear. My car is not blowing it until it warms up.