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Re: Sound Deadener
[Re: mopowers]
#2053550
04/13/16 11:49 AM
04/13/16 11:49 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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To recap here, there are three primary ways you effect sound transmission, a. you reflect it, by increasing the rigidity of the surface b. you slow it down/lower its frequency by increasing the mass of the barrier, c. you absorb a portion of it, which is usually very frequency dependent, ie Fiberglas does well on higher frequencies, asphalt/lead does well on lower frequencies, with a lot of options in between, and finally d. a mixed combination of all the above as buyer chooses. There is no magic here, just some guess luckier then others. 
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: Sound Deadener
[Re: mopowers]
#2054634
04/14/16 11:00 PM
04/14/16 11:00 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
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I've heard stories and seen pictures of that peel and seal stuff melting and dripping from vertical surfaces a while after being installed. I'm staying away from that stuff and sticking to Butyl based stuff. I ended up buying some of the amazon Noico stuff. I plan of scattering pieces just to kill some resonance. I figure it's better than nothing. Was it peal and seal product? I'd enjoy seeing proof. I did a tons of searching online and never read a thing about dripping. Pealing? I don't believe it. The stuff is made to seal porous surfaces on your roof. If you applied some you'd know how sticky it is. Trust me. It's going to be a PITA to remove. The funniest part of the dripping claim is that the stuff comes in a roll that sits vertically on the shelf... i doubt they would sell it that way if it dripped. I guess I'll give an update a couple years down the road. Hope what you bought works well for you.
I’m listening.
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Re: Sound Deadener
[Re: mopowers]
#2055488
04/16/16 12:39 PM
04/16/16 12:39 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
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I've heard stories and seen pictures of that peel and seal stuff melting and dripping from vertical surfaces a while after being installed. I'm staying away from that stuff and sticking to Butyl based stuff. I ended up buying some of the amazon Noico stuff. I plan of scattering pieces just to kill some resonance. I figure it's better than nothing. Was it peal and seal product? I'd enjoy seeing proof. I did a tons of searching online and fnever read a thing about dripping. Pealing? I don't believe it. The stuff is made to seal porous surfaces on your roof. If you applied some you'd know how sticky it is. Trust me. It's going to be a PITA to remove. The funniest part of the dripping claim is that the stuff comes in a roll that sits vertically on the shelf... i doubt they would sell it that way if it dripped. I guess I'll give an update a couple years down the road. Hope what you bought works well for you. I never said anything about the stuff peeling. I've just seen the stuff drip. No thanks. My friend was cleaning his doors out for a while to get that crap outta there. I don't have any pics from his debacle, I did a quick online search. I hope you don't have any issues with it. Good luck. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/general-car-audio-discussion/233106-home-depot-peel-n-seal.htmlhttp://www.mobilesoundscience.com/showth...03804d008a9af07  Well I guess your friend found the limits of that product! Yeah. Don't put it on panels directly exposed to daylight. I'm using it on the floors. Wouldn't even dream about putting it on the underside of a deck lid like the guy in the photo. That's like asking it to stick to a hot frying pan! I guess we'll see how my firewall does. That's the hottest area I've got it on.
I’m listening.
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Re: Sound Deadener
[Re: BDW]
#2055489
04/16/16 12:41 PM
04/16/16 12:41 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
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Good tip, I'm always up for saving some money.
Did you use the Peal & Seal for noise or heat?
Did you notice a reduction in noise levels?
I tried to PM you , but your in box is full. Go for it now. I clears it out a bit.
I’m listening.
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Re: Sound Deadener
[Re: mopowers]
#2055559
04/16/16 02:55 PM
04/16/16 02:55 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
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About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
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Directly from Peel and Seal's installation instructions "Service Temperature -25° - 200° F" Scroll to bottom http://www.mfmbp.com/purchase/store/tabid/81/ProdID/2/Peel_and_Seal.aspxI call BS on the drips. Someone might be using something they are calling Peel and Seal, but it's probably not it. Dynamat says "Dynamat is a patented, lightweight elastomeric butyl and aluminum constrained-layer vibration damper. Dynamat conforms and fuses easily to sheet metal and other hard substrates. Material performance is optimized for temperature ranges between 14°F and 140°F (- 10°C to +60°C). Material can withstand temperature extremes between -65°F and +300°F (-54°C to +149°C) and is highly resistant to aging." Looks like their service temp is 14F to 140F, peel and seal doesn't list a maximum temperature though, not that I can find anyway. I seriously doubt someone's car gets any hotter than someone's roof, especially with peel and seal on the inside of the car.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
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Re: Sound Deadener
[Re: Supercuda]
#2055941
04/17/16 02:16 AM
04/17/16 02:16 AM
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,010
Sac, CA
mopowers
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 3,010
Sac, CA
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Directly from Peel and Seal's installation instructions "Service Temperature -25° - 200° F" Scroll to bottom http://www.mfmbp.com/purchase/store/tabid/81/ProdID/2/Peel_and_Seal.aspxI call BS on the drips. Someone might be using something they are calling Peel and Seal, but it's probably not it. Dynamat says "Dynamat is a patented, lightweight elastomeric butyl and aluminum constrained-layer vibration damper. Dynamat conforms and fuses easily to sheet metal and other hard substrates. Material performance is optimized for temperature ranges between 14°F and 140°F (- 10°C to +60°C). Material can withstand temperature extremes between -65°F and +300°F (-54°C to +149°C) and is highly resistant to aging." Looks like their service temp is 14F to 140F, peel and seal doesn't list a maximum temperature though, not that I can find anyway. I seriously doubt someone's car gets any hotter than someone's roof, especially with peel and seal on the inside of the car. It's probably fine on a horizontal surface like a floor board. I wouldn't trust it on a vertical surface like a door though. I've seen the drips. Good luck.
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Re: Sound Deadener
[Re: mopowers]
#2056043
04/17/16 12:06 PM
04/17/16 12:06 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,428
It's a dry heat
gtx6970
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,428
It's a dry heat
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I'm a firm believer in this stuff Used it in the past 3 or 4 cars I've done. It makes a HUGE difference www.Fatmat.comI use the Rattle Trap version
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Re: Sound Deadener
[Re: lockjaw-express]
#2056049
04/17/16 12:11 PM
04/17/16 12:11 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
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I just bought and installed Dynamat Extreme and Dynamat Superlite in both my '32 Ford and my '69 GTX. I am very impressed with how it bonds to the painted steel, and it bonds very well to just primed steel as well.
I talked to several interior upholstery companies at the NSRA show in Columbus, and they all told me not to waste my money trying to save money on other products. They also told me that the bonding material will literally soak into and become part of the steel.
If I am already spending big bucks on my classic cars, why not just by the best and be done with it.
My 2 cents, Mark Real good point and If you have the cash and you're doing a top shelf resto, I agree. Buy the best. I would love to put in the cool stuff. I won't get my car done before I retire if I go that route. My goal on the entire build is to save 50%-75% on everything. So I rebuilt my transmission myself, I restore parts instead of buying new, I've become a master at parts cross-compatibility and will I install roof flashing to save a couple hundred bucks under the carpet where nobody will ever see? Oh yes I will! And the thrill of going this route and learning as I go has been a BLAST!
I’m listening.
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Re: Sound Deadener
[Re: mopowers]
#2056110
04/17/16 01:40 PM
04/17/16 01:40 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
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About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
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One point that needs mentioned. Priciest choice is no indication of best choice, unless your sole criteria for best is price.
Best choice can have many answers. Compared to the stock sound deadening on my 65 Cuda, ANYTHING is an improvement. Compared to a bank vault, they all fail.
You pick that which you are most comfortable with and that is the best choice, for you.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question.
They say there is always the exception that proves the rule.
Don't be the exception.
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Re: Sound Deadener
[Re: Supercuda]
#2056812
04/18/16 03:15 PM
04/18/16 03:15 PM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
jbc426
master
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master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,277
West Coast, USA
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One point that needs mentioned. Priciest choice is no indication of best choice, unless your sole criteria for best is price.
Best choice can have many answers. Compared to the stock sound deadening on my 65 Cuda, ANYTHING is an improvement. Compared to a bank vault, they all fail.
You pick that which you are most comfortable with and that is the best choice, for you. Self-adhesive sound deadener is only the first step in the process. If you don't utilize a secondary insulating blanket-like substance such as The Insulator, you are only doing half the job. By the way, when I close the door on my '70, which was done with this method, it sounds like you are in a bank vault.(might as well be for as much as these cars are worth these days) This has been the description of many a person who asked if they can sit in the car at car shows.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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the best answer.
