Sound Deadener

How do you folks feel about Dynamat-type sounds deadeners?

I'm about to put down some new carpet in my 68 Dart and am wondering if laying down some sound deadener would be worthwhile.

Also, I found this product on Amazon. Has anyone used it?

http://www.amazon.com/Noico-Self-adhesiv...=noico+deadener

http://www.amazon.com/Noico-Self-adhesiv...=noico+deadener

Lastly, do you folks cover the whole floor? Or scatter pieces throughout the floor?

You wanna do the whole floor + firewall. Dynamat is too pricey & I wonder if that is because of the self adhesive convenience. there's gotta be some thing just as good for less money out there & glueing it yourself ain't no big deal. EDIT And do the doors too

There is a great deal of misunderstanding about the sound deadening process and which products to use. Dynamat Extreme is expensive, because it is one of the best. You can find it at Amazon in Bulk Packs for about 1/2 off retail with free shipping. That makes it one of the most desirable products out there.

The job of these self-adhering butyl pads is to dampen panel resonation and to a lesser degree block noise and heat. The do the first part of the job very well, and you don't need to cover an entire panel to effectively dampen the resonation inherent to it.

If used to completely cover the floor, ceilings and doors of a car you will get a moderately good heat and sound barrier along with a high degree of panel resonance dampening.

The secret to doing an even more effective job at blocking heat, fumes and sound is after you put your Dynamat or other product down, is to completely cover the floors, doors, and ceiling with a product like "The Insulator" from Aircraft Spruce or a similar product from Speedway Motors. Cut out all the various shapes that are needed to fit a complete blanket of this stuff inside the entire interior of your car and tape up the seams with that aluminum ducting tape with the wax paper peel-off backing. You may have to use some contact adhesive to keep the stuff up on the roof until you reinstall your headliner.

Once you have used both products and reinstalled your interior, your car will be quieter than any new high end car save a Rolls Royce or Bentley.

As Paul Harvey would say "now you know the rest of the story"

I just did the rear seat area, the muffler wells and up the rear axle wall to the x brace. I was interested in dreading the exhaust and amplification effect the area has. It wasn't that expensive, I used a quality jute carpeting and left the firewall alone completely. Wanted quieter drive, but it's a muscle and wanted a muscle car experience ... If I wanted a Camary I'd bought one, it would've been cheaper

Edit: grammar

Check Home depot, they have the same stuff, different name, but cheaper.

The "Home Depot" stuff is often asphalt based and will smell like a recently tarred roof.

Duct insulation?

what about the spray on products like "lizzard skin" ? i think there are formulas for sound deadening and heat insulation.

I tried to sound and heat insulate my black '69 Super Bee.

I had the entire interior (floor, doors, firewall, ceiling) coated with Lizard Skin spray on heat insulation.

I put a layer of butyl rubber sound insulation from RaamAudio (similar to Dynamat) on the firewall, floors, ceiling, quarters, etc)

I then put a layer of closed cell foam that is supposed to be a sound barrier over everything.

I used carpet with the extra thick rubber backing.

The doors close with a nice satisfying thud, none of the panels sound like an empty drum if you knock on them, and It is certainly quieter than it was previously.

That said, the car has a 3" exhaust + 3.91 gears and you have to pretty much yell to have a conversation in the car on the highway @ 55-60MPH.

I use lizzard skin in every nook and cranny I could reach while the car was on a rotisserie. Under side of the roof , up in the wheel wells entire underside of the car too. Foamed all the pillars and everywhere else I could foam that there wasn't need for room for something. standard pad under the carpet. This car is VERY quiet. I run a 2 3/4 exhaust with Dynomax VT mufflers. SUPER quiet at cruise, and very nice when accelerating.
I realize this is not practical when not involved in a full on restoration but I like posting this because the question comes up A LOT!!!!!!
The lizzard skin seems expensive but it really is less than any other method for sure when you consider where you can spray it that you would never be able to apply any kind of peel and stick type product.

For the guys that used the Dynamat style, how many square yards does it take to do the trunk, floor pan and doors?

If later you or a future owner might wish to remove Lizard Skin, can it be done?

I used Dynamat Extreme in my GTX project (attached), and I will tell you that is sticks and will not come up...I also bought Dynamat Superlight as well, but it would end up taking two layers to equal the Extreme, but would be slightly thicker with two layers.

I am going to buy another box of extreme to do under the rear seat area. I am very impressed with the sound deadening.

I will use the lightweight for my '32 ford, and just double-up in some areas. Also, Dynamat is manufactured here in Cincinnati, and I have compared other products, and I ended up buying dynamat because of quality.

just my 2 cents.

BR, Mark

I've put 5 Bulk Packs of Dynamat extream in a car with a high-end stereo. In my '70, I used 3 bulk packs.

For comparison - on our '65 Satellite I used 2 bulk packs from Amazon and I cut pieces to fit just the largest panel ares of the floor, firewall, doors, QP below the 1/4 windows and under the back seat - to reduce resonance. I had several sheets of material left over. I did not cover the trunk at all.





The doors shut like a Mercedes.
Cheers,
- Art

I used FatMat and bought 50 sq/ft. It was enough to do the floors, trans tunnel, 1/2 of the firewall, below the rear seat, inside the doors and inside the quarters forward of the rear wheels.
oh yeah, i had some left over.

I got the good tip on the web and installed this last summer.

it's at Lowe's home center and if you hit it right you can get it for $15 a roll. I think it took 5 rolls to do my 70 Superbee. Easy to work with, sticks like crazy and totally baffles the drum skin that is your floor don't listen to the critics that say it smells like tar. That's BS. I installed this stuff in 80-90° heat and it never smelled. I've read posts on other sites with guys setting their car out in 100°+ weather for hours with no odor. It's easy to work with. I used 1/4" overlap. Use a small wood or plastic roller to press it down. Sticks to itself great. It's ridiculous to spend hundreds of dollars on dynamat for the prestige of the label you'll never see.

I have 2.5 exhaust on a bb cuda with headers.....used fat mat mega mat on everywhere including floors, roof, door skins, firewall, speaker deck, behind seat and the inside is very pleasant. I can have a conversation with no issue unless I am rowing thru the gears. I drove the car before and it is night and day for sound and heat. Found it on eBay.....

Great idea, Bee. I'm not married to blowing big wads of cash for name brand stuff if something cheaper works just as well. I have seen the tar/asphalt based stuff at the home improvement places though. Working in construction, I have developed a severe dislike of the smell of roofing tar !

I've heard stories and seen pictures of that peel and seal stuff melting and dripping from vertical surfaces a while after being installed. I'm staying away from that stuff and sticking to Butyl based stuff. I ended up buying some of the amazon Noico stuff. I plan of scattering pieces just to kill some resonance. I figure it's better than nothing.

To recap here, there are three primary ways you effect sound transmission, a. you reflect it, by increasing the rigidity of the surface b. you slow it down/lower its frequency by increasing the mass of the barrier, c. you absorb a portion of it, which is usually very frequency dependent, ie Fiberglas does well on higher frequencies, asphalt/lead does well on lower frequencies, with a lot of options in between, and finally d. a mixed combination of all the above as buyer chooses. There is no magic here, just some guess luckier then others.

Was it peal and seal product? I'd enjoy seeing proof. I did a tons of searching online and never read a thing about dripping. Pealing? I don't believe it. The stuff is made to seal porous surfaces on your roof. If you applied some you'd know how sticky it is. Trust me. It's going to be a PITA to remove. The funniest part of the dripping claim is that the stuff comes in a roll that sits vertically on the shelf... i doubt they would sell it that way if it dripped. I guess I'll give an update a couple years down the road. Hope what you bought works well for you.

Good tip, I'm always up for saving some money.
Did you use the Peal & Seal for noise or heat?
Did you notice a reduction in noise levels?

I tried to PM you , but your in box is full.

I never said anything about the stuff peeling. I've just seen the stuff drip. No thanks. My friend was cleaning his doors out for a while to get that crap outta there. I don't have any pics from his debacle, I did a quick online search. I hope you don't have any issues with it. Good luck.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/general-car-audio-discussion/233106-home-depot-peel-n-seal.html

http://www.mobilesoundscience.com/showth...03804d008a9af07

I heard it said, "A picture is worth a thousand words".

Well I guess your friend found the limits of that product! Yeah. Don't put it on panels directly exposed to daylight. I'm using it on the floors. Wouldn't even dream about putting it on the underside of a deck lid like the guy in the photo. That's like asking it to stick to a hot frying pan! I guess we'll see how my firewall does. That's the hottest area I've got it on.

Go for it now. I clears it out a bit.

Directly from Peel and Seal's installation instructions

"Service Temperature -25° - 200° F"

Scroll to bottom

http://www.mfmbp.com/purchase/store/tabid/81/ProdID/2/Peel_and_Seal.aspx

I call BS on the drips. Someone might be using something they are calling Peel and Seal, but it's probably not it.

Dynamat says

"Dynamat is a patented, lightweight elastomeric butyl and aluminum constrained-layer vibration damper. Dynamat conforms and fuses easily to sheet metal and other hard substrates. Material performance is optimized for temperature ranges between 14°F and 140°F (- 10°C to +60°C). Material can withstand temperature extremes between -65°F and +300°F (-54°C to +149°C) and is highly resistant to aging."

Looks like their service temp is 14F to 140F, peel and seal doesn't list a maximum temperature though, not that I can find anyway.

I seriously doubt someone's car gets any hotter than someone's roof, especially with peel and seal on the inside of the car.

I just bought and installed Dynamat Extreme and Dynamat Superlite in both my '32 Ford and my '69 GTX. I am very impressed with how it bonds to the painted steel, and it bonds very well to just primed steel as well.

I talked to several interior upholstery companies at the NSRA show in Columbus, and they all told me not to waste my money trying to save money on other products. They also told me that the bonding material will literally soak into and become part of the steel.

If I am already spending big bucks on my classic cars, why not just by the best and be done with it.

My 2 cents, Mark

It's probably fine on a horizontal surface like a floor board. I wouldn't trust it on a vertical surface like a door though. I've seen the drips. Good luck.

Saw on one of the many car tv shows that they used peel and stick duct insulation. Wonder how that would work? Not the tar kind. Not sure if this was it or not. http://www.homedepot.com/p/E-O-12-in-x-15-ft-Self-Stick-Foam-Foil-Duct-Insulation-FV516/100028603

I used tinted bedliner (RaptorLiner) to serve as my first layer of noise reduction. I expect it to significantly cut down on resonance throughout the interior and provide a durable surface for actually putting stuff in the trunk.

I will likely add something additional for heat rejection before I am through however. Firewall, forward floors and the roof.

I'm a firm believer in this stuff

Used it in the past 3 or 4 cars I've done. It makes a HUGE difference

www.Fatmat.com

I use the Rattle Trap version

Real good point and If you have the cash and you're doing a top shelf resto, I agree. Buy the best. I would love to put in the cool stuff. I won't get my car done before I retire if I go that route. My goal on the entire build is to save 50%-75% on everything. So I rebuilt my transmission myself, I restore parts instead of buying new, I've become a master at parts cross-compatibility and will I install roof flashing to save a couple hundred bucks under the carpet where nobody will ever see? Oh yes I will! And the thrill of going this route and learning as I go has been a BLAST!

One point that needs mentioned. Priciest choice is no indication of best choice, unless your sole criteria for best is price.

Best choice can have many answers. Compared to the stock sound deadening on my 65 Cuda, ANYTHING is an improvement. Compared to a bank vault, they all fail.

You pick that which you are most comfortable with and that is the best choice, for you.

the best answer.

Self-adhesive sound deadener is only the first step in the process. If you don't utilize a secondary insulating blanket-like substance such as The Insulator, you are only doing half the job.

By the way, when I close the door on my '70, which was done with this method, it sounds like you are in a bank vault.(might as well be for as much as these cars are worth these days) This has been the description of many a person who asked if they can sit in the car at car shows.