i wish it was a myth, i bought 2x sets of 1.120ch pistons, both sets suffered from premature wear on the skirts & due to the piston rocking, i had to change rings every year on my race engine just to get the cranking pressure #'s back up.
We learn from our mistakes & I will never run a short piston like this again, they were costing me too much in maintenance. The 1.32ch piston is so much better for long term ring seal. Personally Dave, i think you'd be doing better to build yourself a 512. I've done a couple of 451's with great success, a 470 that was ok but a rod bolt failure cut that motors life short, a 499 stroker was my most expensive to maintain & a 512 which seems to be as good as the 451, but theyre the same piston so not surprised.

what brand of pistons did you have that issue with? Thanks for the heads up about this possible issue. Mahle told me its the way they build their piston that prevents the worn ring skirt issue. If you want the specifics youll have to give them a call but they told me no issues such as these with their piston.

http://s85.photobucket.com/user/caper_2006/media/HPIM0312.jpg.html?filters[user]=26741373&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1

How do you post a pic? Why does somebody have a site that is very hard to post a pic?

I don't think it is the pin height that allows them to rock in the bore but skirt bottom to piston crown height that keeps the rocking down.

HERE IS WHATS ON THE BOX FROM ROSS

bore size 4.375
C.H. 1.865
Ring Groves .0640 .0640 .1880
Ring Lands .220 .155 .080
Pin .990 2.930 DBL
Net Dome CC's -17
Dish Depth .140
INT. V.P> Dia 2.300
Ext V.P. Dia 2.000 depth .300
Net Dia 4.370 depth .260
Total seal rings
Send PM if interested. Going out for evening for a few beers.

Will try to post pics in for sale section tomorrow.

On my first 400 block low deck pump gas 4.250 stroke stroker motor I had Ross custom make the pistons with a 22.0 CC dish, they weighed 452 grams without the pins and with the oil ring spacers. I used a forged steel BB Chevy type H beam 6.800 long CAT brand rod and had Ross make the pistons with the tight alloy aluminum to reduce the piston rock in the bores, I don't remeber the exact C.H. but they where real short. I changed the crank to a 4.300 stroke to move the pistons up from .025 down to zero deck when I put the eddy aluminum heads on it two years later to increase the compression ratio. Dram use to call them hockey pucks once I posted a picture of them, the bottom of the skirts would come 1/2 way out of the bores and the pistons skirts look bad,they had visible wear marks from rocking, but measure good It turns out that alloy is very delicate and mars and marks up easily I don't use a compression gauge but the motor did leak down good with a FFA certified aircraft dual gauge leakdown gauge I put a lot of laps on that motor at the track and drove it on the street some also, probally less than 4000 street miles
Lots of choices out there, think and check out many things and times before buying, act once

exactly. I ask on here to get different opinions and that gives me a better idea of which way to go.

Go to the botton of the box where to type your reply. Click on file manager.

I agree. I don't see why wrist pin height factors into overall piston height. It seems to me the max skirt length is determined by stroke, counterweight radius and deck height. I expect the 'hockey puck' pistons are for those who want to brag about their low bob weight.

i Thought the shorter the pin height the shorter the over all piston height as well?

not nessacarily

ok, just seems when i see shorter pin height the piston is lighter as well.

I would contact Diamond. They are less than 80 miles from you and will make the piston however you want it. Talk to Ron Beaubien.. I had my custom pistons for one of my builds in less than a week

ill ask Dwayne Welder about them, he is a dealer for Diamond. He's on 11m and 75.

👍

I expect the 'hockey puck' pistons are for those who want to brag about their low bob weight.

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Some of us on here share information based on past expereinces to help others on here make decisions I order those pistons for a iron headed pump gas motor with those rods and stroke. I hadn't built any other low deck strokers motor from scratch at that time, the pistons are what Ross made for me for that application. When I posted the original dyno results a bunch of the "experts" on here doubted the results without having a clue on what they could do with the same parts, I ended pointed out making 1.19 HP per C.I. on pump gas was no big deal
If you don't experiment and try new things you will always be behind on the HP curve Lead, follow or get out of the WAY

Will offsetting the 4.15 get you into the oil pickup? What's the point of the build? Street? Some strip? What heads? Where I'm going is if you have heads that will only support 500hp maybe a bit more... On a milder build why get into reworking a crank and custom pistons. 451 or 470 would get you there just as easy with less chasing .02

470 was what i wanted to do first. 499/511 costs about the same. I just bought a pickup from source for stroker cranks to fit the pan cab sold me. Mostly street and to track couple times a season. Edelbrock vics cnc flow 359@600 on up. 11-11.5 comp.

Gotcha. My only real thought is build around the heads and theres a lot to be had with your Vic's ... Max it out. I just see 500+" and stealths for street use and it seems odd to use hockey puck pistons on a street build to make 500hp obviously not your direction

no, the goal is to break into the 9's on pump gas with 3300#. drive most any where.