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how much shrink does the product have after it is removed from the mold?

Could you use it to make a mold out of something else easier to shape and less expensive then a head for test porting?

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Cool how much does it take per intake port?

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Definitely cool. A lot can be figured out doing this. Thanks for the share.

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the hole in the end looks interesting

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PERV.................

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Working on a set of B1 heads for this years build and trying to get 10-15 more CFM out of them so I poured a port mold so I could see a nice 3D mold of where I was at this point. I rarely pour anymore but being this is for a heads-up build if its there I gotta grab it. Very easy to do at home for the home head porters and I think this would help some if you never tried it. Here is a link of the place I deal with. If you order some talk to a tech and DON"T forget to order a spray can of "mold release"

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by sectioning every 1/4" or so, you can easily plot the port area at 1/4" stations and pinpoint the pinch point.

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Zero shrinkage so you can easily take port measurements at any given point. Not sure about making a mold of something. To remove it from the port you have to slice it behind the valve guide with a razor making a nice clean cut and then PULL it out the manifold face.

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Zero shrinkage so you can easily take port measurements at any given point. Not sure about making a mold of something. To remove it from the port you have to slice it behind the valve guide with a razor making a nice clean cut and then PULL it out the manifold face.

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What razor do you use to reach down into the port for the slice? I started experimenting with this a couple of years ago. Have a port I poured that I had trouble removing the mold and I set it aside until I had more time for it. The razor may solve my issue.

I hope my leftover mold mix is still usable after sitting so long.

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I have a long handle craft type razor blade that I usually use but I couldn't find it yesterday so I grabbed a regular new scraper razor blade and held it in my hand. It worked GREAT on this head but might have been tricky on a smaller bowl. Just try to make one clean cut so if you want or need to super glue it together you can. I also take a small screwdriver and work it between the head and mold all the way around the port. Did you spray it with mold release compound?

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I have a long handle craft type razor blade that I usually use but I couldn't find it yesterday so I grabbed a regular new scraper razor blade and held it in my hand. It worked GREAT on this head but might have been tricky on a smaller bowl. Just try to make one clean cut so if you want or need to super glue it together you can. I also take a small screwdriver and work it between the head and mold all the way around the port. Did you spray it with mold release compound?

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I screwed up on that one intake port and did forget the mold release which is obviously making it more difficult. I used a flat, dull butter knife and tried to work it around between the mold and the port to help release it. I also sprayed mold release a few times after the fact. I'm hoping that slicing it at the valve guide like you've mentioned will give the mold some more flexibility in order to come out. Thanks for your post.

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I'll have to give that a try to get a different perspective on my own efforts.

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It really does Brad. Sure beats flipping a head over 15 times looking at the short-side from different angles. I did a set of cast iron Dart Platinum's for a Friend and I skipped going to the gym that week.