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Re: I over torqed my tie rod end...what should I do?
[Re: plazomat]
#1674670
09/22/14 09:17 PM
09/22/14 09:17 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,551
Norwich CT USA
moparts
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,551
Norwich CT USA
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Just amazing reading this thread, How a simple problem is made to sound so difficult Lets see they were $4 tie rods, with too short castle nuts shipped with them , so get the right nut or space with washer. Then again the new cars just use Nyloc nuts now. On the recall, totally different problem, defective manufacturing the allows the ball to pull out of the socket , nothing to do with a short castle nut 
Tom ,
2011 Ram 3500 C&C Diesel
2009 Challenger R/T
1971 Challenger Conv. 511/4 speed
1970 Challenger R/T 503/727
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Re: I over torqed my tie rod end...what should I do?
[Re: Sxrxrnr]
#1674674
09/22/14 10:36 PM
09/22/14 10:36 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,946
WI
Dcuda69
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,946
WI
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Quote:
This is more fun than Seinfield reruns.
lol....wait till the middle of winter!! This is just practice!!  
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Re: I over torqed my tie rod end...what should I do?
[Re: moparts]
#1674675
09/22/14 11:17 PM
09/22/14 11:17 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 643
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
plazomat
OP
mopar
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OP
mopar
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 643
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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Quote:
Just amazing reading this thread, How a simple problem is made to sound so difficult
Lets see they were $4 tie rods, with too short castle nuts shipped with them , so get the right nut or space with washer.
Then again the new cars just use Nyloc nuts now.
On the recall, totally different problem, defective manufacturing the allows the ball to pull out of the socket , nothing to do with a short castle nut
It is a $15 moog tie rod end and about $30 with shipping - not sure where you get your parts but I need the details....
I gotta get some props for starting the thread of the week-I took the nuts off the rod tonight - threads looked ok - I have a ball joint seperator coming in Wednesday to pull the joint and not damage it so I can post pictures and hopefully prove someone right...replace the rod anyway since I am there again.
Plaz-o-mat
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Re: I over torqed my tie rod end...what should I do?
[Re: nomore65BelvJim]
#1674676
09/22/14 11:34 PM
09/22/14 11:34 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
OzHemi
Penguin-hating Ginger
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Penguin-hating Ginger
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 104,346
Garden Grove, CA
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Quote:
Quote:
Just amazing reading this thread, How a simple problem is made to sound so difficult
You must be new here 
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Re: I over torqed my tie rod end...what should I do?
[Re: GODSCOUNTRY340]
#1674678
09/22/14 11:52 PM
09/22/14 11:52 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,946
WI
Dcuda69
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,946
WI
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Quote:
Quote:
This is more fun than Seinfield reruns.
I wanna play Kramer. 
Careful...that could end up in place of prostock
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Re: I over torqed my tie rod end...what should I do?
[Re: GODSCOUNTRY340]
#1674679
09/23/14 12:24 AM
09/23/14 12:24 AM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 252
Minnesota
69Y2RT
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 252
Minnesota
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Quote:
you've pulled the ball almost out of the joint
Just like you will pull the tire off the rim by over torquing the wheel studs 
Its just the wrong nut, not rocket science.
Get the correct nut, don't use washers to make the wrong nut work.
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Re: I over torqed my tie rod end...what should I do?
[Re: Silver70]
#1674681
09/23/14 01:00 PM
09/23/14 01:00 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,512
God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,512
God's Country Maryland
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I know the tapered shaft goes into a tapered hole and the taper creates an interference fit. But suppose the taper on the shaft was machined 1/4" too low on the shaft. Now the tie rod housing is making contact with the center-link or ball joint arm before the tapered shaft contacts the tapered hole. As you tighten the nut it starts pulling on the ball inside the joint, possibly cracking the housing allowing the shaft to seat in place. Now the castle nut is too far down on the shaft causing the OP's problem. You guys are most likely right, it's just the wrong castle nut, but what if the above is the problem, he just puts a washer under the nut to raise it to spec, drives down the road and it comes apart? You don't take chances on critical components and a tie rod end is definitely a critical steering component.
I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
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Re: I over torqed my tie rod end...what should I do?
[Re: GODSCOUNTRY340]
#1674683
09/23/14 01:14 PM
09/23/14 01:14 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,073
Niles , Ohio
therocks
oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
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oh wait.but hey.lets see.oh yeah.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,073
Niles , Ohio
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Man some of these people are thick.Ill run it on my car.Im not a sky is falling guy.As for Chrysler replacing parts you better get some comprehensive reading classes.It says nothing about them being overtightened.Just like when they get dry and old.Yeah thay can and do pop out.Id pay to see you pull one thru the taper and get it to pop out of the body.Rocky
Chrysler Firepower
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Re: I over torqed my tie rod end...what should I do?
[Re: dogdays]
#1674684
09/23/14 01:18 PM
09/23/14 01:18 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,512
God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,512
God's Country Maryland
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I didn't say the taper was too small, I said maybe too low on the shaft. If a manufacturer is unable to supply the correct castle nut can that same manufacturer be relied on to machine the taper correctly on a shaft? All it would take is 1/4" off.
I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
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Re: I over torqed my tie rod end...what should I do?
[Re: GODSCOUNTRY340]
#1674686
09/23/14 01:26 PM
09/23/14 01:26 PM
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 252
Minnesota
69Y2RT
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 252
Minnesota
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Quote:
I know the tapered shaft goes into a tapered hole and the taper creates an interference fit. But suppose the taper on the shaft was machined 1/4" too low on the shaft. Now the tie rod housing is making contact with the center-link or ball joint arm before the tapered shaft contacts the tapered hole. As you tighten the nut it starts pulling on the ball inside the joint, possibly cracking the housing allowing the shaft to seat in place. Now the castle nut is too far down on the shaft causing the OP's problem. You guys are most likely right, it's just the wrong castle nut, but what if the above is the problem, he just puts a washer under the nut to raise it to spec, drives down the road and it comes apart? You don't take chances on critical components and a tie rod end is definitely a critical steering component.
If that was the case, the steering would be locked up even if it was torqued correctly the first time.
You would pull the threads out of the nut before you would damage anything else by just over tightening it.
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