Quote:

---

Jim I think some of this stuff is way over thought.I can tell these guys never worked in a garage at flat rate.Zip them in with your impact.Just dont go wild doing it.That was on daily drivers that saw more miles in a month than most of these will see in 2 years. Rocky

---

I've put literally 1000's of these together on daily driver cars of all types. I can't remember torquing many with a wrench. Zip them on,pop the cotter in and go. If the castle nut don't line up I'd be looking at the nut more than anything.....doubt you could stretch a hardened stud at 80 ft lbs.

Quote:

---

Jim I think some of this stuff is way over thought.I can tell these guys never worked in a garage at flat rate.Zip them in with your impact.Just dont go wild doing it.That was on daily drivers that saw more miles in a month than most of these will see in 2 years. Rocky

---

Seriously ??

Quote:

---

There's got to be a reason the castle nut if too far below the cotter pin hole. Either he stretched the shank or the ball is pulling from the socket. Don't tell me the ball won't come out of the socket, that's exactly what happens when they fail. Plus, these are most likely parts made in China, do you really want to trust your families lives or other motorist lives on a sub-standard Chinese part? My son worked at a bolt supply store and would get cases of grade 8 bolts in and find many with the heads popped off the bolts. They had to sort through them to remove the bad bolts before putting them out for sale. They were told to never tell the public about this process.

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Jim I think some of this stuff is way over thought.I can tell these guys never worked in a garage at flat rate.Zip them in with your impact.Just dont go wild doing it.That was on daily drivers that saw more miles in a month than most of these will see in 2 years. Rocky

---

Seriously ??

---

A flat rate garage sending out something that might cause a problem??? Tell me it isn't so

MY

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Jim I think some of this stuff is way over thought.I can tell these guys never worked in a garage at flat rate.Zip them in with your impact.Just dont go wild doing it.That was on daily drivers that saw more miles in a month than most of these will see in 2 years. Rocky

---

Seriously ??

---

A flat rate garage sending out something that might cause a problem??? Tell me it isn't so

MY

---

Obviously you guys have never worked in a dealership where your flat rate work has to be impeccable or it costs you money. If you scratch a panel, break a bolt, or misdiagnosis a car it costs you money out of your paycheck. I average about 75 hours in a 44 hour week because I take my time and make sure all the cars are perfect before they leave.
To the original post you did not stretch the threads so far that the cotter pin won't go in. As stated before there are different nuts and some of the quality control with these components produced today is very disappointing. I put tie rods on an older Yota pickup last week and there were 2 different tie rod ends in identical boxes, the nuts were different as well.
I would just get another one and sleep easier knowing it was done right.
Gus

Quote:

---

There's got to be a reason the castle nut if too far below the cotter pin hole. Either he stretched the shank or the ball is pulling from the socket. Don't tell me the ball won't come out of the socket, that's exactly what happens when they fail.

---

Quote:

---

Jim and Gus you wont change their minds.Especially John.He is the expert in every field and has done tens of thousands.We had quality surveys on everything we did at the shop.We still carried a 98% approval rating.
As for the balls coming out of the sockets yeah they do.Its called wear and being dry also.In 50 years Ive never seen anyone pull a ball out by tighting it.Like I said you guys over think the simple things.Rocky

---

I never said the ball was coming out of the socket, that was something someone else said.

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

There's got to be a reason the castle nut if too far below the cotter pin hole. Either he stretched the shank or the ball is pulling from the socket. Don't tell me the ball won't come out of the socket, that's exactly what happens when they fail.

---

You can not pull the tapered stud through the tapered hole. It will snap off long before that happens and 70-80 ft/lbs is not going to do that. As for pulling the ball from the socket, that doesnt even make sense as an explanation of what is or isnt happening. Do you think the ball itself is being pulled through the much smaller
tapered hole?
Its the incorrect castle nut for this application. Thats the reason the cotter pin hole is above the castellations. I have seen it before and the new part (sometimes) came with a washer and (sometimes) an explanation.

---

Quote:

---

Your right and these guys saying to slam it together and get it out the door just bring the whole industry down. No clue or care about liability.

It might even have been the right box with wrong part in it with the wrong taper as the Op is only talking about one of the ones he purchased. It needs investigated.

---

Well said

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

Quote:

---

There's got to be a reason the castle nut if too far below the cotter pin hole. Either he stretched the shank or the ball is pulling from the socket. Don't tell me the ball won't come out of the socket, that's exactly what happens when they fail.

---

You can not pull the tapered stud through the tapered hole. It will snap off long before that happens and 70-80 ft/lbs is not going to do that. As for pulling the ball from the socket, that doesnt even make sense as an explanation of what is or isnt happening. Do you think the ball itself is being pulled through the much smaller
tapered hole?
Its the incorrect castle nut for this application. Thats the reason the cotter pin hole is above the castellations. I have seen it before and the new part (sometimes) came with a washer and (sometimes) an explanation.

---

You can't? Then why was my '08 Cummins Ram just recalled for tie-rod end failures? It seems the housings are cracking allowing the ball to come out of the joint. Dakotas had this same problem a few years ago. When the housing cracks there's not much to keep the ball in the joint, It's coming out! Wear alone isn't the only thing that lets the joint come apart, housing failures will let it happen, that's the reason they're recalled.

---

Not even the same thing. You can't pull the ball out of the socket by tightening the nut. Mainly because you aren't putting any kind of pressure on the socket at all. The tapered shaft will only go so far into the drag link. Yes the socket can break from wear but not by over tightening the nut during installation which is what we are discussing here. Stick to the original subject.