Anyone done this and had a problem? I need to make some progress for my sanity and well being. I have the US Cartool connectors, car is a 69 Charger and it is on a Whirly Jig. Any input is appreciated.

That's how I did mine, only my car was clean underneath and then got blasted a second time before paint. I put in frame connectors at the same time. First I pressure washed the whole car to get rid of grease and oil. Then blasted it bare. It was quick, easy and everything bolted on the car perfect.


I blasted the bottom clean on a Sat afternoon. Sat night I welded in the boxes and frame connectors. Then Sun I reblasted the bottom a little and then did the outside body with plastic media.

I'm not so sure that's the way to go. I have always believed that the body will flex differently when on the ground with suspension then with mounting it on the rotissere. Some believe, although I may not, that it should be on the gound with even the full weight of a motor and trans in there.
I've seen projects that have intalled jigs temp welded before they put it in the air.

I tacked mine (frame connectors) in while on the floor and after it was back on the rotissere I finished welding them in. I don't know all about the body flexing, but I don't like taking chances. I did't put in boxes, but I might do it later and if I do I'll probably set it back on the floor. Good Luck and have fun with it.

what goes in first, torque boxes or frame connectors ??

Race chassis' are built on surface plates to keep everything locked in to its proper location during the assembly process and the resutlant heat cycles of welding and fabrication. This ensures everything is exactly where it needs to be for maximum performance. If you are building your car for maximum performance, then there is merit to using a surface plate.

If you are building a cruiser, odds are you are not going to introduce enough deviation to the spatial locations to make a big impact on your set up when driving. A slight deviation here and there will most likely go unnoticed. Evena casual strip/bracket car would fall into this catagory. This is why certain components have adjustment built in to them. The factory assembly variations were allowed almost half an inch in some places. I'm betting you will do a better job than that putting things together, so you already are improving the platform.

Since your car is all apart currently, no need to put all the loads in it to maintain panel alignment. You will be resetting those gaps as you rebuild the car. If your car was together, painted nicely, and already a driver, then I'd suggest duplicating current suspension loads to keep everything playing nice together.

Give casual use status, the order of assembly is also unimportant.

I did mine that way. Supported the center of the car first with it in the upright position. Didn't want to cut the frame for the boxes with it only supported on the bumper mounting points.

I do plan on a cleanup before I start, at least local wire brushing etc. i just wondered if there was any flex to the bare body while on the rotissere. I might mount a laser bore sight to my magnetic dial indicator base and aim it at a fixed target while I spin the car to see if anything moves. Probably just over thinking things as usual.

That would be interesting to know. Please post your findings.

With as sloppy as these cars were assembled, 1/8" here and there, it's a moot point IMO.

If you want to take the 'sag' out of it, turn the car upside down on the rotisserie when you tack them in.

I welded mine in with the car on the rotisserie and it was fine. The rest of the car was solid and the COMPLETELY bare so there was very little weight.

I will try the laser idea and post an update. Been fighting major depression lately, trying to get meds right. Been asleep for most of the last three days. Sucks

Rob, when you decide to start...Call me, would love to come help get that stuff welded in...