I am curious about what press regulator some of you are using on carb systems when using a return line setup ? Is it a reg with the return line fitting on it ? Ron

I use the Aeromotive 13301.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/133...NDOR_Aeromotive

there are plenty of them out there and i'm sure a lot of pretty good ones. though i've never used one of these i think it's a nice setup

I`m running the recommended return style reg. w/my Magnafuel 300 pump and what a difference over my other set-up.

Mallory 4 port with return... been on my car since
day one

Aeromotive 13204 here.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/13204/10002/-1

Thanks for the replies. I am considering going to the return line setup. Ron

I have a holley blue pump and holley return style reg simple setup worksgood on my car

I have this exact same problem, and it started as soon as the winter blend gas went away. It is aggravating as all heck!! Mine only percolates in the rear bowl though. The front must move enough fuel during cruise to keep it from happening.

As soon as I try to make a WOT Run, it eats all the front bowl, and gets to the back and just sorta shuts off. I can see the gas boiling through the sight glass.

I am also looking at building a return style system to cure it.

I first ran into this problem a couple years ago. Driving home from work (65 mph on the highway mostly) I stopped at the gas station, then the car was a bear to refire. Flooding out, would run briefly then die, blah blah blah. Had that happen a couple of times after that before I broke down and spent the money on a bigger pump, regulator, lines, etc. It was definitely worth the money.

Only time I've had an issue w/ it recently was during the True Street race at Rockingham a few weeks ago. We had to do a 10 mile drive, then pull into the lanes w/ NO cool down time and do 3 back to back hot laps down the 1/4 mile. I didn't have enough fuel in the tank so it started recirculating hot fuel...it used more than I anticipated. By my last pass it almost died coming out the water box from the fuel being so hot and trying to vapor-lock. It ran 3 dead on 10.01 at 135 mph passes w/ a broken torque converter and won the class, so I wasn't too upset, lol.

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I have this exact same problem, and it started as soon as the winter blend gas went away.

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the RVP of winter blend gasoline is higher that that of summer to aid in vaporization, winter blend would be much more likely to have vapor locking and boiling problems.

just curious how many if any of the guys having these types of problems are running some type of insulator under the carb?

FWIW
I run a mechanical pump and factory style vapor separator with a return line. I have driven my cars all over the country in very extreme conditions and with all different kinds of gas. My car's fuel system is quiet, stock and dead reliable and would be easy to get parts for anywhere.
I don't need all that fancy racing stuff on my street car. How many of you can say you've driven your car at near wide open throttle for miles at a time, like over 5 miles at a time in 95 degree weather at 6000 feet alitutde? It never ran out of gas. I also drove it in 115 degree temps in Vegas last summer with the AC running the whole time.

I don't need no stinking vapor locking electric fuel pump on my street driven muscle car.

My carbs is bolted right to the intake manifold with no spacer/bandaid.

I ran a wood spacer on my 340 to stop percolation, it sounded like a coffee pot a few minutes after I shut it off.

When I built the 408 I ran a 1/2" line up the inside of the frame rail to the regulator (non return)from the Holley billet black pump. In real hot weather the car would do the same thing as Rons, it would boil the gas and flood going down the highway. My car has air pans sealing up the front and the carb was sealed to the hood so pretty much the only air going through the engine bay came through the radiator. I fabricated a shield for the line where it passed by the header and removed the air pan sealing the hood but it would still do it in very hot weather.

The fix for me was to route the fuel line over the frame tie behind the trans crossmember, through the inner fender into the wheelwell on the passengers side and through a bulkhead fitting in the front of the inner fender to the regulator mounted there. I also replaced the 3/8" line from the regulator to the carb with 8AN. No issues since, my heat was coming form the headers and the lack of airflow in the engine bay compounded the problem. BYW I'm still using the Holley deadhead regulator.