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Ok ..From A to Y B41 B51 C16 D34 D53 E87 G11 J46 J81 N96 R33 R36 S77 VX1 V6X W23 Y14 T86 There are no A (group) codes. The sticker price for this 71 Challenger was $4752.05 Funny thing about this car is the OPEN 323 rear .It must have been a handful on a rainy day.

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If that's what GG gave you for codes you need to ask for your money back

D34 would not be correct. Yikes...my typin is no good actually the codes are B41 B51 C19 C55 C93 F25 F96 G11 G41 J11 J15 J21 J25 J31 J46 J81 L76 M21 M26 N41 N42 N85 N96 R36 R33S15 S25S77 S81 W23...

Also there are codes that would have to be there that you don't have listed. Are you holding out? I see on the left side of the printout E87 D32 D53 T86 V01 V1X GY3 V6X TX8 Those are all the 3 letter codes

If you can email me a copy of your broadcast sheet I can probably help you.

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Mike

Based on the info you provided your tag would look like this. However I still think you are holding back a code or two that might make people question the tag. All the lower case stuff are things you have not provided.

PS: I know all you "experts" can ID a repo tag.

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That one will stick out like a sore thumb ...

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Please enlighten us

I could tell you the two things that "might" be wrong with it, but let's see your knowledge of 71 tags.

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Why does it have M21 twice?

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Obviously this isn't something you should be doing while enjoying an adult beverage

That would be a mistake

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In my opinion, a reproduction tag can cast doubt on an otherwise honest car down the road. If you have a lot of other documentation, the repro tag adds nothing to the value. It might make you feel warm and fuzzy as the current owner, but it will be spotted a mile away.

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@theshakerproject: If you really want to have a tag in your enginebay:
Let the fake tag being produced but instead of the last six digits of your VIN in the lower right bottom let there be "repro" stamped in. In that case everyone knows it is not original, including the novices. And you have told it the spectator without waking doubts of your car or intentions.

Carsten

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.........thats not good. I will wait to here back from GG to see if he ever got a copy of the orig tag befor I have a new one made. I do know that one of the prev owner, Hank Bowers was a SIAC member back in the 80s. I wonder if any of that info still exsist today.

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In my opinion, a reproduction tag can cast doubt on an otherwise honest car down the road. If you have a lot of other documentation, the repro tag adds nothing to the value. It might make you feel warm and fuzzy as the current owner, but it will be spotted a mile away.

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@theshakerproject: If you really want to have a tag in your enginebay:
Let the fake tag being produced but instead of the last six digits of your VIN in the lower right bottom let there be "repro" stamped in. In that case everyone knows it is not original, including the novices. And you have told it the spectator without waking doubts of your car or intentions.

Carsten

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Whenever I see a reproduction tag on a car that the owner is trying to pass off as the original tag, I assume that the block and trans have also been restamped and are not original.

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In my opinion, a reproduction tag can cast doubt on an otherwise honest car down the road. If you have a lot of other documentation, the repro tag adds nothing to the value. It might make you feel warm and fuzzy as the current owner, but it will be spotted a mile away.

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@theshakerproject: If you really want to have a tag in your enginebay:
Let the fake tag being produced but instead of the last six digits of your VIN in the lower right bottom let there be "repro" stamped in. In that case everyone knows it is not original, including the novices. And you have told it the spectator without waking doubts of your car or intentions.

Carsten

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Whenever I see a reproduction tag on a car that the owner is trying to pass off as the original tag, I assume that the block and trans have also been restamped and are not original.

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Interesting.. I'd take a BS over a fendertag any day.

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Yep, you're not alone but I stand by my preference.

On one hand It'd be nice to know which tires my car came with and whether or not it had full wheelcovers, but the FT covers the bulk of the important stuff.

OTOH, I don't have a blank spot where the FT is supposed to live or a repop that makes people question whether or not the car is fake....

....so I'll take the FT any day.....though either is good enough and both is great!




Dave

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To put it bluntly, most people with the knowledge to properly lay out a tag aren't going to be offering (detailed) assistance as most of them do not want you in on their game of making fake tags.

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fixed.

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A missing FT is only a deal killer to me if there is no BS; with a sheet, the missing tag is less of a big deal....to me anyway. I've always said that despite the fact the FT has less info on it, it is part of the car and the BS isn't....given the choice, I'll take the original FT/no BS car over it's inverse.....but either is acceptable to me.


This thread has made me think: I've always said that despite my dislike for fake and fraudulent documentation that I'd consider a repop FT *IF* there was enough original documentation to back it up...but I'm finding myself leaning towards some that have expressed the opinion that a repop tag raises too many questions and taints the car without adding much to the car.....

I guess it's about "lines in the sand" and where your comfort level is. For me:

- no original tag or BS = no repop tag
- have BS, missing FT = maybe repop tag
- have a rusty but legible FT or pics of original tag = yep, i'd do it

I have dozens of pics of my original FT as well as a couple pencil rubbings.....if my original went AWOL, I'd get a duplicate made.


Dave

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I thought I wrote this myself. My thoughts completely. I am a numbers geek and love broadcast sheets, but if I had a choice over the two, would take an original fender tag for all the reasons above. Also the reason I hold original documentation so highly. I wonder what the masses would prefer if we had a poll?

Rick.

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if a repo fender tag is going to cast so much doubt about the car shouldn't anything other then an original paint car be in question also? i mean come on now. its pretty damn easy to swap the numbers on a car before its painted. god knows how many "rare" high dollar well known cars out there have had numbers swapped on them back in the day before anyone really cared. i'll bet its a lot more then any would believe.
...................................................................... Very True... Im reall not in the game of flipping and selling ANY mopars. I have never sold one. I keep them for me and I build them how I want too. I like my cars to look correct and run better than stock using as many correct parts as possable . I think is funny when people say there OPINION could hurt or taint the value of any car. Thats just plain B.S. !!! Im not trying to add any value or fool anybody by reproducing a fender tag . I just want one on my car. These day, with all the social media aviliable to check out a fender tag or other documentation, I think it would be difficult to still get fooled. EVERY high end restored collecter car these day should be suspect and should be checked out using all avail resources befor purchase. BTW, most of the info I needed to format a tag for my Hamtrack car was in the 70-71 parts book. I thank everybody for there opinion, positive or negitive, its all good.

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BTW, most of the info I needed to format a tag for my Lynch RD car was in the 70-71 parts book.

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I'm confused; you said in the first post that your car was a Hamtrack built car...you talking about two different cars now?

I think a Lynch Rd tag would be the hardest to "duplicate" seeing as how (IIRC) the gate, line and sequence numbers at the top of the tag appear nowhere else. You'd have to make them up completely

Anyhow,

Dave

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I think is funny when people say their OPINION could hurt or taint the value of any car. Thats just plain B.S. !!! The value of most anything, cars included, is based on opinion. Some people's opinion on the value of an item carries more weight than others. One person's negative opinion on the value of a car can hurt it.

Im not trying to add any value or fool anybody by reproducing a fender tag . At least be honest. Of course you are fooling someone. You want to put one on your car to make think people it's the original.

These day, with all the social media aviliable to check out a fender tag or other documentation, I think it would be difficult to still get fooled. EVERY high end restored collecter car these day should be suspect and should be checked out using all avail resources befor purchase. High end collectors sure....the average Joe. No. the average Joe believes it's the original.


BTW, most of the info I needed to format a tag for my Lynch RD car was in the 70-71 parts book. Page 6 only shows a generic layout. It's not specific to LR. Is there another page in the parts book I'm missing?

What was coded, when it was coded and where it was coded on the tag changed during the year. From what I can tell, there are at least three different code change layouts to the 70 LR tag.

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BTW, most of the info I needed to format a tag for my Lynch RD car was in the 70-71 parts book.

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I'm confused; you said in the first post that your car was a Hamtrack built car...you talking about two different cars now?

I think a Lynch Rd tag would be the hardest to "duplicate" seeing as how (IIRC) the gate, line and sequence numbers at the top of the tag appear nowhere else. You'd have to make them up completely

Anyhow,

Dave

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Sorry, my mistake ...it is a Hamtrack car. My Charger R/T was built at Lynch rd and has its orig tag. The basic layout of the tag for a Hamtrack car is in the parts book. Yes the Lynch rd tags are different as seen on the 71 superbee site.