CRIMP CONNECTORS: The idea that PROPERLY crimped QUALITY connectors are inferior to soldered connectors is nonsense. Some of the most expensive test equipment and military equipment in the world uses crimp connections

RELAYS: You MUST use two, one for high and one for low, and put them as close to the lights / battery supply as possible, otherwise you defeat the purpose

69chargeryeehaa:

With respect, your installation is very poor practice. Connecting circuits to unprotected battery posts is a poor idea from the aspect of corrosion and intermittent problems down the line. The gassing from the battery will eventually seep into the relays--which are NOT sealed--and corrode the contacts and other connections. I hear others mounting electrical accessories under the battery tray, and this, too, is poor practice.

The relays should be away from engine heat as much as possible, protected from battery gases, and road splash.

PROBABLY, up high forward of the rad support is a condsideration. You might need to build a small sheet metal shield for road splash.

Also, if you use those self-resetting little rectangular breakers, REMEMBER--they are degraded in amperage by ENGINE HEAT. So are fuses. If you decide to mount them, for example, INSIDE the car, then you'll be faced with battling the ever present bulkhead connection--probably most of the problem in the first place.

Also, the factory wiring, both for tail lamps and headlights, is FAR FAR from what I'd use. I'd use at LEAST #14, even for tail lamps.