Quote:

The actual rate you get at the wheel from a torsion bar depends on how long your lower control arm is (B/E different to A) and how wide your wheels/tires are.

The longer the LCA and the wider the wheel, the lower the actual rating you get at the wheel.

Take that into account if you are trying to maintain a handling balance front to back.

In fact on the subject of balance, if you just fit stiffer front suspension without taking into consideration how stiff the rear is you will just end up with a car that understeers badly.

If you have understeer with a 0.96 bar you will make it worse going to a 1.00 bar.
If you have oversteer with the 0.96 you would be right to try a 1.00 bar.



The rates I posted where for E/B body length LCA's.

I thought changes in wheel offset effect the spring rate rather than width. The normal of the forces on the contact patch is the center which is also the center of the rim width.

I think these cars have so much roll in stock form, a large contribution to the understeer is due to tire losing geometry. Reduce the roll and let the much better modern tires grip in the front. In stock form these cars are balanced. They understeer greatly unless there is enough power to thottle oversteer.

I went to 1" front T-bar in an A-body (stiffer than a B/E) with just the stock front sway bar. But I had 225/60/15 tires. Car definitely increased it's cornering power. It still understeer at the limit, but the limit was raised.

I then added a rear sway bar with same stock front sway bar and same 1" T-bar. A little oversteer. Next I put on a 1 1/8 front sway bar. Seemed pretty balanced. Now I'm trying a 1 1/4 front sway bar. Seems to understeer. But now I've got old hard tires. I could play with my adjustable front shock too... On and on it goes...