Quote:

When removing cyclinder heads, instead of beating on them with a BFH to break them loose, try removing all of the head bolts except for (2), which you loosen but do not remove, then crank the motor over. The compression will pop the head loose and the two remaining bolts will keep from ruining your day.



Thats a good one.

When pushing on a wrench to loosen something, use an open handed grip. If you slip off the nut, your fingers will not get crushed by the wrench.

weld a nut onto a stuck stud, they are cheap to replace and you might even get it to come out. And PB Blaster is slightly acidic so douse those exhaust manifold studs the night before you want to remove them for best results.

slip the balancer on freezing cold. Youll get it alot farther on the snout before it hangs, maybe enough to get the original bolt to catch!

If you ever set a head on a block for mock up, hand thread 1 bolt, itll save your foot, or worse.

If an LA intake doesnt seat properly, dont force it down with the bolts, check for an alignment dowels in the front top of the block where the cork gasket goes. I split a cast iron one in half because I didnt see the old dowel and the replacement intake didnt have a hole for it.

Replacement reluctors can go on 2 ways for LA and B/RB distributors. Look for writing on the top and bottom to denote which direction it turns.

Compress your calipers using the old pads before you replace them, Makes the new ones go onto the rotor much easier.

if your torsion bars dont come out fairly easily, place your jackstands at the rear of your front subframe and use a floor jack under the K to remove any body sag. Theyll almost come out by hand.