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Try swapping out the ECU for one that you know works.

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The ECU does not get power when on IGN1 or start. Power is sent directly to the coil (brown wire from post 22 on FSM). When you let go of the key after the motor catches the key detents to IGN2 or Run which then sends power to the ballast resistor and in turn ECU (Blue wire from Post 23 on FSM). During start the ECU is not needed.

A classic ballast resitor or ECU problem is the car will START but not RUN. This problem is opposite to that which means something is wrong between the switch and the wiring directly to the coil or the switch itself.

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I have an orange box that TRIES to start on run, but nothing on start.
My truck had a factory ECU that TRIED to start on run but not on start.
My buddy told me to swap out the ECUs, and I told him 100 times it couldn't be it.
I swapped out the ECU on my truck, it started right up.


I checked grounds, ballast resistors, wiring, voltage, coils, ignition switch, EVERYTHING.
It was the ECU swap that made my problems go away..