Quote:

Quote:

yup, a ballast resister is needed. you probably smoked the coil.

http://www.msdpower.com/download/8202.pdf

but you did just install aa master kill switch. how is it wired. the timing seems very suspicious



I don't think so, they even say that their MSD6 or 7 system delivers 12V to the coil, and that a seperate 12V signal is not needed when using and MSD box, and they said it needs a .8ohm resistor if used on a stock POINTS style ignition...mine is a stock ELECTRONIC style ignition...didn't think a resitor was needed, and like I said, 3 years, 3500 miles...

if it did need a resistor, then yea, I guess I cooked it, but kind of funny that it happened just now!

I don't think the kill switch had anything to do with it...just bad timing. I did move the battery all the way to the back, which added about 10 feet to the main positive battery cable by the time I sent it through the switch...but I still had 11.9V at the coil with the key on and not running, I don't THINK my problem is a voltage drop issue...the volt meter in the dash drops to about 9 or 10 volts while cranking the engine...don't know what it dropped to before, never paid attetion, cause it always started!

the other change was to take the main charge from the alternator to the power distribution box on the driver side inner fender (which then sent it back to the battery, and/or powered everything else on the truck) and sent it back to the battery side of the kill switch. nothing else was changed, and it seems to be working just fine, like I said, it cranks at normal speed, shows 11.9V at the coil, ignition box, etc...

if the MSD is a capacitive discharge system (which I think it is), the coil gets fired BY THE BOX. both the + and - coil powers comes from the box and not from the ignition feed +12 v) and thats why a ballast resister isnt needed.

But when you use a stock box, the stock (or orange box) only sends the groun d signal to the coil so you need (i believe) a ballast resistor whe nusing the orange box or points