When I had to change the radiator, I went with an aluminum crossflow radiator that had 4 rows in the core. That radiator was a lot smaller then the Dakota V8 radiator was, but it was also thicker (suppose to be able to cool 450 HP, I think that might be generous). The hood clearance was the biggest issue. I had to remove the factory fan and install an electric fan (on the motor side of the rad). Even the placement of that electric fan was close, its set off to one side of the crossflow radiator. The fan does cover the entire height of the aluminum radiator. That electric fan runs as soon as the coolant temp reaches 180, and never shuts off until you shut off the motor. On my truck, an additional trans cooler would have had to be placed somewhere under the truck. If you intend to drive your truck through the Green Bay winters, you are likely going to want to run that trans fluid through the radiator as well as an aftermarket cooler. My RE46 doesn't like to function correctly (poor upshift, and no OD) until the fluid gets above 120 degrees. If the ATF does not go through the radiator trans cooler, it may not reach 120 degrees on some winter days. Just another thing to add to the list.

Pic, or it didn't happen.
Pic 1) This is the new aluminum radiator sitting on top of the OEM Dakota V8 radiator. I was after the lower top of the radiator. The top corners on the OEM Dakota rad barely cleared the hood corners, and that was after modifying the top radiator supports.
Pic 2) This pretty much shows the differences in height between the two radiators. The reality was I would have likes to have had the two closer to being the same core size, changing from the vertical flow to the cross flow would have given me the clearance I needed, but this one was the only thing I could find that fit in the hole.
Pic 3) Radiator in place, clearance is still tight.
Pic 4) That hook on the left side is the hood latch. The sheet metal clearance on the other side of the radiator has the same clearance.