Originally Posted by Greenwood
So, my refresh made a total of 6 passes before it kicked a rod. Now, from my own post-mortem, it appears that a crack in #3 cyl wall let in some water. The piston encountered said water at about 6500, and took the wrist pin right out. I'm down two rods, a piston, and a pan. Needs a sleeve, obviously. The cam has some nicks, and some marks you can just barely feel with a fingernail. IIRC, I can send it back to Comp for a repair. If not, new it is. The pistons, luckily are still current in the KB/Icon catalog, as are the Eagle rods. #3/4 rod journal is not pretty.
What is of deeper concern is the state of the bearings. I put new mains and rod bearings in, and several are not pretty. #5 and #6 rod bearings are showing copper, and the mains are just plain rough. I assembled using liberal amounts of Lubriplate, as I have in the past. The engine was very well pre-oiled, and oil pressure was good on initial fire-up. Even if I hadn't cracked a cylinder, this thing was on borrowed time. It's worth noting that the two actual good passes I got, out of six, it ran almost a full tenth quicker than it had been, with a 1.52 60' launching it with a solid 700-800 more on the converter than it has ever liked in the past. And .050 less valve lift (Thank you PRW rockers.) What might I have done to hurt those bearings so quickly? I'll try and post up some pics later.


What engine. What bearing clearances? I’m not a fan of any paste type assembly lube. If it’s a small block and you are running solid lifters you need to tube the passenger side oil gallery and plug off the drivers side at the number 1 main bearing.

You SHOULD be using full groove mains and a high volume pump. Your bearing clearance should be tight enough (.0020-.0022 on the rods and .0023-.0025 on the mains) so you can run a good, not off the shelf 5w30 or ow20 synthetic oil. Just my .02


Just because you think it won't make it true. Horsepower is KING. To dispute this is stupid. C. Alston