Typically the guys I've worked with over the years considered equal tire sizes as a square set-up without consideration of the bolt circles or wheel offsets. It is the rarity that one runs into mixed bolt circles on a vehicle. I have seen it it, but it isn't common. However, if you do have alternate bolt circles in your hubs, all you really loose is the ability to easily rotate tires to any position. In a car turning right and left, I don't see that as an issue on the same level as a car that only turns one direction that may be running alternate diameters right to left.
Are replacement hubs in a square bolt pattern more or less expensive than the wheels under consideration and which methods serves the long term goals best?
It 's becoming clear the complexity of having two different BC's on the car is greater then in my case, just building a new set of custom spindles with better bearings to then have my matching BC's. I need a stronger hub/bearing package then any stock offering available.
That will also allow me to go with Mopar friendly 4.5" BC, and since I believe GM 4.75" BC is a bit stronger, I'm likely when tapping for the 4.5" BC, I'll convert to either 9/16" or 14mm studs.
Redrilling/dual pattern wheels are not available for my size that I have found.
Well I admit you've got my attention, if you don't mind please answer some questions.
What car?
What rear axle?
What knuckles/front hubs?
If not using the popular circle track 5" pattern, I'd agree the 4.75" might be your best bet.
As an aside, when my bro. in-lsw built his mazda GTU car in 1980 he used the porsche bolt pattern. He said wheels, hubs, brake parts were more available and less$, and available used!
I lived with 4.5 on the front, and 5 on the rear of my road race Challenger for too long before I finally had the rear axles/rotors re-drilled.
There wasn't enough meat to re-drill the fomoco front hubs to 5"
