Originally Posted by Cab_Burge
Before you remove the rear main seal make sure where it is leaking from, the crankshaft seal or the side seals scope If it is from the crankshaft seal it will have oil slung off of the face of crankshaft flange out onto the flywheel or flex plate facing the block, scope if it is leaking from the side seals it won't :scope
If the side seals are leaking use a good brand of adhesive silicone in the valley between the main seal holder and the block, fill it up completely with a putty knife or a screw driver that will fit in between the crankshaft flange and the seal holder wrench whistling It ain't easy but it flat works up
On the torque of the bolts,, the FSM calls for 15 Ft. Lbs. on the oil pan bolts and 30 Ft. Lbs. on the main seal holder bolts: Do you have inch lb. torque wrench? If so use 180 inch lbs. instead of 15 Ft. Lbs. on the oil pan bolts up
Good luck up
If the factory workers can assemble thousands of motors that don't leak, so can we up work


It's leaking from the crankshaft seal. I watched from underneath the car while running and I could see oil dripping off the the back of the crank seal. The flywheel, headers and even my rotors are completely covered in oil, so it's definitely leaking at the rear main seal and then slinging the oil everywhere. I don't see any leaks coming from the side seals though. What kind of silicone do you recommend to use? I've heard a few people on here say they have had great results using the right stuff gasket maker. I'm just a little worried that I wouldn't be able to take it back apart if I ever had to in the future without ruining anything.

1973 Cuda 528 all aluminum Hemi, 4 speed, 3.23 Sure-Grip, (JA5) Silver Frost Metallic 1973 Challenger Rallye 340 1985 W150 Power Ram prospector 1986 Camaro IROC-Z 305 tpi