Best oil pan gasket

I need to buy new oil pan gaskets for my hemi and I'm wondering what everybody has had the best luck with against leaks. The motor only has 100 miles on it and the cork/steel combo gaskets on it are already leaking. What do you suggest? Any gaskets sealers with it as well? Thanks

cork/steel? not sure of a brand but do check the pan rails for flatness. Leaking out the sides or front/rear? (may be a seal issue)

They are the gaskets that Ray Barton sells on his website. The entire oil pan rail and rear main are leaking. Everything is brand new but I'll check for flatness. I'm also considering buying the oil pan support braces that mancini sells to help with the sealing as well.

Did you assemble the motor? If so did you use a windage tray along with two of those gasket? If so did you install the gaskets dry or use gasket sealer between the gaskets and the windage tray and block? If not maybe you should.
Leaking between the gasket and block and oil pan are usually caused by over tightening the fasteners squeezing and crimping the gasket around the fasteners instead of having equal pressure on the gasket the entire length of the oil pan and timing cover hence Robert suggestion on the tightening sequence
BTW, the Fel Pro steel lined Teflon BB and hemi oil pan gaskets work great out of the packages with no sealer needed

We bought a set of Andy's pan rail brackets and my opinion is they will work best with a pan with a FLAT perimeter,
not dimpled like OE

With a dimpled pan, the last holes on the brackets are cantilevered over the pan surface because of the dimples
and deform when tightening, exerting uneven pressure on the gasketing.

My .02 cents....Joe

I didn't assemble the motor; I bought it as a crate. It has a windage tray and uses two separate gaskets. They did use gasket sealer on the gaskets. Thanks for the heads up about the oil pan braces. Every motor that I've seen with cork gaskets always seem to have issues with the oil seeping through. I'm changing the rear main seal as well, so I'm just trying to find a leak proof setup as I really don't want to have to go through this again.

I've been curious about Summit's house brand gasket/windage tray combo? Has anyone here tried that yet?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2339

THanks,
Ben

Superformance without a doubt

This has O.E.M. cork gaskets since July of 92,never leaked a drop !

Before breaking it open I would put a socket on each bolt and see if any are loose.
On a new gasket installation (or fresh engine) with a cork gasket it usually is required to retighten the bolts at least one time.

If found loose snug them up and clean the engine at a coin wash.

THEN see where the leak comes from if still leaking. Don’t continue to drive it.
Windage will surely spread the oil around.

I did check the nuts on the oil pan at first and they were a little loose so I tightened them up two more separate times and the pan still leaked after snuging them up. I pulled the pan off anyway to change the rear main seal that is also leaking. Is there a certain torque spec for the oil pan bolts and the rear main seal retainer as well?

Before you remove the rear main seal make sure where it is leaking from, the crankshaft seal or the side seals If it is from the crankshaft seal it will have oil slung off of the face of crankshaft flange out onto the flywheel or flex plate facing the block, if it is leaking from the side seals it won't :scope
If the side seals are leaking use a good brand of adhesive silicone in the valley between the main seal holder and the block, fill it up completely with a putty knife or a screw driver that will fit in between the crankshaft flange and the seal holder It ain't easy but it flat works
On the torque of the bolts,, the FSM calls for 15 Ft. Lbs. on the oil pan bolts and 30 Ft. Lbs. on the main seal holder bolts: Do you have inch lb. torque wrench? If so use 180 inch lbs. instead of 15 Ft. Lbs. on the oil pan bolts
Good luck
If the factory workers can assemble thousands of motors that don't leak, so can we

It's leaking from the crankshaft seal. I watched from underneath the car while running and I could see oil dripping off the the back of the crank seal. The flywheel, headers and even my rotors are completely covered in oil, so it's definitely leaking at the rear main seal and then slinging the oil everywhere. I don't see any leaks coming from the side seals though. What kind of silicone do you recommend to use? I've heard a few people on here say they have had great results using the right stuff gasket maker. I'm just a little worried that I wouldn't be able to take it back apart if I ever had to in the future without ruining anything.

My suggestion, and also what worked for me on my 440 pan. Right Stuff sealer and no gaskets. I used the small calk gun and 2 refill kit they sell. Also a Chevy BB oil pan stud bolt kit. Working time to get it assembled with a windage tray is like 10 minutes. So I would recommend a dry run one time to memorize motion to get pan up around the pickup and in place in one smooth motion without bumping into anything where the sealer will be.

I put studs in block, then sealer on the pan and then crawled under and did the block, then windage tray on. It will stick up there. Then the pan on.

Good luck!

Also if you need suggestion for rear main side seals. For side seals I left them out and filled with Gray RTV. I filled the side seals by using a 10 ml syringe and 10ga luer lock blunt tip needle (when in the car and converter attached).

Look for any silicone that has Adhesive Silicone on the front Not gasket maker

Not to highjack this thread but - Cab what is your beef against "right stuff gasket maker". It worked great for me but I'm not a pro mechanic, just a hobbyist . I finally got my valve covers to seal. I tried 5 other "gasket" ways as suggested here all leaked. Solution - no gasket and Right Stuff. These were 516 heads with the angled bolt holes and cast valve covers though.

My engine was assembled by a pro who has done thousands. Pan gasket always dripped a little. Solution was Right Stuff. It probably would have sealed using regular "gasket" way too.

Draw back I see with it is you only have 5-10 min max to get it all assembled. And with windage tray and engine in the car, that is a challenge. Because there is a lot of length to spread the sealer, it starts setting up and when you finally start to assemble, it doesn't squeeze out same as RTV. It acts more like having an o-ring seal.

I might not be a "pro" that has assembled thousands of engines but I can assemble ones that don't leak.

I also do not use RTV of any kind, or the right stuff. It's called attention to detail and if your pro's attention is insufficient to seal an oil pan, which on a B/RB is the easiest in the world to seal, what else escaped his attention?