The older and original choke spring assemblies had a lock nut where the pivot shaft mounted to its bracket. Rotating the slotted shaft the spring was mounted to would allow for slight adjustments to cold running spring tension. Later versions of the divorced chokes had the shaft pressed into a fixed position to prevent adjustment. The reissue choke that came with my MP six-pack hardware kit was fixed and non-adjustable. If you are careful you can force this shaft to pivot thereby relaxing the spring tension. Again you would be de-tuning the choke to allow the choke to be fully open at operating temperature. When cold there will be insufficient spring tension to provide a fully functional choke. It would be only slightly better that wiring the choke open or disabling the choke all together.

As for installing a Holley or aftermarket choke assembly to the center carb, the limited space available in that area rules that out. The fuel line to the rear carb and the front carb’s vacuum actuator directly conflict with this space. The mounting points cast into aftermarket Holley’s to mount the aftermarket choke are not present on the six-pack center carb. In my case, I also wanted to keep the original appearance.

Removing the vacuum line from the “pod”? The “choke pull-off”, is there to open the choke slightly after start-up to allow air for the cold mix. I can’t see how blocking off that vacuum line would resolve anything, would make matters worse I suspect.

This is my home built timer/choke heater control.