A 1.12 bar is super stiff so there is a very small window for error in clocking. If the clocking isn't spot on then there isn't enough adjustment in the system to make up for it. When you use a small bar the bar gets twisted 40 or 50 degrees from bump to bump. A super stiff bar only twists a fraction of that amount.
If I'm building a pro touring type of car with a low ride height and stiff torsion bars I know that I'll most likely need to mock it all up and then order the torsion bars with the correct clocking. Firm Feel will clock the hexes anywhere you need them. If you just order the bars without talking about clocking then they take an educated guess on how heavy your car is and they assume that you're using stock lower control arms and they assume that your car has normal ride height.
Important info to note here.
As you step up t-bar size and start adding aftermarket components, the OEM methods aren't always in alignment. You may find you need to rotate the control arms UP before you get proper hex alignment to put it all together and create a reasonable ride height. Lower control arm clocking is the foundation of this and the area that it seems so many people get wrong.
