It is okay to disagree. I have Rick Ehrenberg in my corner on this one. As soon as I hear of millions of RMS owners log over 100,000 miles each in their cars with their cars, I'll send you a cookie.
What part of my post do you disagree with? The part about welding back in the bumps stop not taking a lot of time? Or was it where I said the OEM was stronger than the Alterktion?
You are really working hard at keeping that cookie, first you have to hear from millions of RMS owners, they have to log over 100,000 miles, each in their cars, with their cars (in and with at the same time or both?), with those kind of parameters I don't think I need to check the mail anytime soon for that cookie.
The OP stated that he advised his customer not to do anything that's not bolt-on due to it being a matching number car. Last time I checked, cutting off factory pieces from the car does not qualify as bolt-on.
I'm not saying that RMS is good or bad, just pointing out that it does not fit what the OP is asking for...
Well I would say we are splitting hairs if drilling out 6 spot welds is not a bolt on to get the alterkation installed in a car.
If we go by this criteria the Hotchkis TVS system I put in last summer was also not a bolt on as I had to:
1. Grind the upper control arm mount
2. Weld on sway bar tabs on the lower control arms
3. Weld in sub frame connectors
4. Cut the factory Torque boxes to get the sub frame connectors to fit
5. Weld on the rear sway bar bracket and I think drill a hole or two in the frame.
So to me one is really no worse than the other...and I would call either system "bolt on" in my garage.
And honestly I'm not trying to be jerk about it to you in any way if it comes across like that, just giving the original poster my thoughts on what direction to go with the customers car. I have done both systems and they are both great choices.
