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Not misinformation. All wires have some resistance and inductance. Just because they are the same "circuit" does not mean the same location. That same common circuit could be broken down showing small resistances due to wire length (and even connections) between each part of the circuit.
Having the connections closer to the battery, and on a different connection than the starter or other high current loads will also help prevent dips in the voltage when a high current load turns on. E=I*R



The inductance or capacitance of wire in a DC circuit is nill. When you get into the Ghz, that's a different story.

I agree that being on one side of the circuit vs another can result in higher or lower voltage which is due to resistance of the wire + connections in the bulkhead.

Also when a car is running, the alternator will be the source of the current, not the battery so your reasoning is backwards.



Have you measured the voltages/currents in a car? The "noise" is well into the megahertz range. And inductance and capacitance plays a huge role in the low megahertz range.

You can bet that the battery is the source to tie to when trying to minimize noise. The battery terminals are the closest point where you will have pure DC. The alternator is a rectified AC device and it will have a ton of noise on its output.



I still don't understand how you think something tied to the same circuit would experience more or less "noise". I have never seen any evidence or have any reason to believe an alternator would put out noise in the Mhz range. Assuming we rectify twice per cycle (pulley rotation), alternator turns 3x per engine RPM, gives (2 x 3 x 5000)/60 = 500 Hz (at 5000 engine RPM). Any "ripples" from this rectification are very small and would not affect anything but the most sensitive of electronics. If your alternator is putting out any appreciable noise in the Mhz range, you got a crap alternator. Even so the only thing that would be different from the alternator stud to the starter relay would be the amplitude of these fluctuations (and hence the DC output) which would be lower (hopefully by less than several 100mV) at the starter relay.

Again spreading misinformation and fear over nothing.

For the OP, if you are sick of this banter, just pull the 8ga bypass wire + 12ga fuse link from alternator stud to starter relay and then this doesn't matter. Your ammeter will be totally unreliable but you will get power where you need it and it will be safe.

I guess this will comfort the ignorant that, over that 8ga wire, all the high frequency Mhz "noise" from the alternator will suddenly melt away over 3 feet of 8ga wire since now you are tapping into all that "clean" battery juice now.