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Yes, exactly. No argument with you cjskotni.

If you did not run a bypass and connected directly to the alternator then the load would still cross the bulkhead in the event the engine was not running and the device needed power.

That specific scenario is less common and would carry a lighter load but in the event you are running new lights or a large amp or large electric fans, I would personally run a bypass and create a new distribution point inside the engine bay so those loads could pull directly from the engine bay.

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I agree the bypass isn't a bad idea if originality is not top priority. It will render the ammeter inaccurate but is safer and provides less of a voltage drop than the OEM harness. It should also be noted that if you do this, you should put a fusible link 2ga smaller than the bypass wire in-line, unless you are suicidal.

My main point was to refute the people on here who think that the voltage is somehow "clean" on the battery side of the harness and "shakey" on the alternator side. This is misinformation and simply not true.