Quote:

...

I have looked without success for a standard ratio pitman without 'Judas Spline' or master spline as commonly called. Does anyone know of one.



Someone PM'd me about that in your situation. And there are only 36 splines. Then you do the math.

So he said:

"...You mentioned eliminating the master spline so the pitman can be clocked where you need it…. Well there are 36 splines so each step is 10 degrees so assuming the pitman arm is 8” each tooth moves the outboard end 1.4” that’s a pretty big adjustment… "

Quote:


Can anyone explain what so called 'bump steer' impact that non equal length tie rod ends might cause me if I were not to expend effort to bring them to same length. Also would this cause different turning radius's left or right, or is this purely a function of an off top center steering box. Steering geometry has always been a bit of mystery.



You mentioned on the other thread it was about 1/2" off center. Yes that will change some bumpsteer. I really don't think it will be enough to notice. When the factory installed "T/A fast ratio steering" with the longer pitman arm only, that also changed bumpsteer. Have you heard anyone complain about those cars having bumpsteer?

Moving the inner tie rod point up and down has a much great effect on bumpsteer than moving the point left and right.

For as far as you got into this adding some shims to help certainly isn't a ton of effort since everything taken apart and tools are ready.


Your factory setup does not have perfect bumpsteer. Even when you adjust for bumpsteer with an accurate dial indicator bumpsteer gauge, you usually never get a 0.000" toe steer change. And many time when you improve compression or extension, the other condition changes for the worse.

This is a bumpsteer check on my Barracuda with a Longacre bumpsteer gauge: