Dave, the 5000 lbs straps will work fine if you use four of them. The car weighs less than 4000 lbs right? So the point is that the 4 5000lbs strap are way overkill when holding 1000 lbs each or less. I have used the military cargo type tie down straps for years hauling my race cars on both trucks (4) and trailers (5 or 6, both open and enclosed) The main to remember is to check the straps after several miles before taking off to go a long distance, over 50 miles or more. IMO. I have had the straps come loose due to stretching and takeing a set. I cross the rear two straps over the center of the rear end, make sure and not catch the brake flex line or pinch or pull the metal lines on the housing also. The cars don't stop well with out the rear brakes. I do use the K member for the front straps also, but I don't cross them. I do pull the front to the outside though, not straight ahead. I would NOT use the lower control arms to tie the car down as they are intended to control up and down movement, not fore and aft! You can use a third strap on the rear to pull the car down if you make a bracket or hook on the chassis instead of the rear end housing. The rear end housing is not going to hold the suspension down on the rear end as it is unsprung. (I hope that makes since) I have read the articles about the shocks and spring wearing out if you don't tie the chassis down in the trailer and I'm sure that there is some value in that advice. But you are driving your car on the street so I wouldn,t worry about hauling the car a few miles at a time. Last thing is on the winch, I have learned the hard way to NOT leave tension on the winch after the car is tied down. The winch is not intended or design to hold a load that is being bounced around like a car is on a trailer, you don't want the winch gears failing when one of your kids is behind the car while loading it! Loosen the cable up while transporting the car on the trailer. The winch will love you for it and not let you down!