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pull the dizzy out and move it over a tooth...might be you don't have the dizzy in the right spot and it looks like you're waaaay advanced. if that doesn't do it, then pull the timing cover and degree in the cam.





does not matter on sb mopar...as long as the cap and rotor point to #1 at the same time and as long you have room to move the vacuum advance and it does not hit the intake manifold...




I know, but....if the dizzy is off a tooth or two, you might actually have the rotor under plug #1's terminal if you put them on the terminals they are supposed to be on what is shown on all the diagrams, and you're actually reading off what should be #2, so when you try advance it to where you want it to be it's way too advanced....been there, done that, I knew something was up when it ran best with 13 or so degrees of initial RETARD, not advance. unbolt the dizzy, jump it over one tooth (or move the plugs over 1 terminal) and all was hunky dorey....




then you just move the whole distributor...LOL..it does not matter...but if you say so..go for it..LOL...

No 1 on the rotor could be pointing at the firewall..and if no 1 on the cap is pointing at the firewall and the wires are in the correct sequence it will run just fine..the immediate shaft has no clue what is going on with the distributor...




I know. I could have just popped my wires over one terminal on the cap to get everything lined up, but then I had issues with the vac. advance hitting the firewall when getting my timing dialed in, so I pulled the dizzy, and rotated the oil pump drive over 1 tooth.

I'd play with the timing, the OP says it drags the starter with more than 2 degrees of advance, I'd just try tune it by ear retarding the advance first and see where it works best. if pulling more timing out it runs better and better, it could just be the issue I suggested, and easier than pulling the t-chain cover and possibly the head to degree in the cam....

Last edited by patrick; 12/29/11 09:47 AM.

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