A friend told me about this on Crowers web site in there Q@A section, under support.
Crower does Not recommend using synthetic oil for any application, they recommends a non detergent-race only petroleum based 30wt with a ZPP plus additive.
I do not remember a company like Crower saying not to use synthetic oil.

this should be good!

I had the same sort of conversation with Richard Iskidarian about scuffing on the body of my red zones.

There was a time that in the Mopar Bible they recommended that synthetic not be used. We don't use it in our race car.

Crower and Iski need to turn the page.

they say it doesnt "cling" to the parts as well as conventional oil,, it runs off therefore not lubricating as well

mark williams tells you not to run synthetic gear lube either

I ran synthetic in my 8.75 a several of years ago, and did not like the scuffed look on the teeth, switched back to dino oil and problem went away.

yeah i would never run the stuff

it wear youre stuff out,,
rot youre teeth,
make you have bad breath
give you gas,,
mm nope wont run it

I've used nothing but synthetics for well over 10 years now without a problem and my engine has a flat tappet cam in it. I can tell the difference in just the way the engine idles from synthetic to dino oil of the same viscosity. I use dino oil to clean up my engine after sitting for extended periods like a year or more and then change to synthetic. It's an instant 200 rpm increase.

From what I've heard and read on the interweb synthetic clings better than dino oil.

As far as synthetic engine oil clinging to parts when it sits very long(week or more) Mobil oil got sued 15 or 20 yrs. ago over the thier Mobil 1 synthetic aircraft oils causing cams to go bad in Contintental air cooled and liquid cooled aircraft engines. Mobil CO. quit making and selling that oil and payed many aircraft owners millions of dollars for new motors One of the other problems with that oil( I used it for many years and dind't have any cam problems in my Lycoming motor, my cam was located in a different location than in Contintentals ) is that Mobil 1 AV oil wouldn't keep dirt particles in suspension long enough so the oil filter could clean it out, that oil would leave and make nasty sludge deposits in the motor That airplane had ran Phillips brand aviation brand multi viscosity(SP?) oil in it for several hundred hours before I bought it, I switched it to Mobil one on the first oil change and ran it for 6 or 7 yrs, I did have one valve cover off when I first bought it and it was spotless inside, not so 6 yrs later I changed oil and filter every 50 hours or sooner I switched to Shell multi viscoty avaition oil and started running Marvel mystery oil in it to clean the sludge out, that worked eventually All multi weight oils have synthetic polymers in them to make the oil change viscoty

Just like the petroleum, all synthetics are not the same.

conventional im to cheap to change synthetic after every weekend of racing

fascinating. i've used both synthetic and conventional with excellent results either way. mosier specified conventional in my mosier 60, but they couldn't tell me why.

The 440 in my Challenger lost a 100 RPMs when changing to a petroleum based oil of the same weight.
I cannot rap my head around that a full synthetic oil is harmful to the life of my motor.