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Its a 4 gear car

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Well right there's your problem. I'm sure that'll crank some people up.

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Its a 4 gear car

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Well right there's your problem. I'm sure that'll crank some people up.

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I was thinking that but didnt want to say it!!!!

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I love rowing gears, Always have, but I dont think thats my issue. Id like someday to build a decent 904 for it, but then I hate to de-convert my 4 Speed car. I spent a lot of time and effort switching this car to a 4 speed.

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Well The car doesnt look the same as in my sig, cant remember how to change sig pictures. And the pinion angle is 3 degrees.

Kasey

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Well The car doesnt look the same as in my sig, cant remember how to change sig pictures. And the pinion angle is 3 degrees.

Kasey

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Not enough, you need a good 6-7 degrees, especially with a stick car.

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Well The car doesnt look the same as in my sig, cant remember how to change sig pictures. And the pinion angle is 3 degrees.

Kasey

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Not enough, you need a good 6-7 degrees, especially with a stick car.

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if your car is a stickshift id be done with those et street radials and put on some bias ply et streets (the DOT slicks they sell)...that should definatly help some...bias ply is the only way to go and hook with a stick car...and the traction on the et street is the same if not better than the radial

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106 is aenemic for a stroker with those heads...

You need to do some tuning/check for issues.

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is the heads ported? I wouldn't call them great heads either way

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Well The car doesnt look the same as in my sig, cant remember how to change sig pictures. And the pinion angle is 3 degrees.

Kasey

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Not enough, you need a good 6-7 degrees, especially with a stick car.

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What about a auto??? My SS springs are going in tonight. My new front hangers JUST arrived!!!!

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I'd say about -3,-4*, i run mine all the time at this, drive the 100 mile round trip to the track, make 3-4 passes & go home, the car is so smooth on the highway its comfee

Mike, you need to check your trans tailshaft angle to set the pinion angle currectly, mine is set at 0*, my pinion is down -3*.

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Ok, been at work.

Car has /6 bars, and 90/10 front shocks.

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I'LL SAY IT AGAIN, 90% OF MAKING ONE HOOK IS IN THE FRONT END ........Throw the CE shocks in the trash and buy some Cal-Trac front shocks.......Make sure it's got either urethane upper control arm bushings or heim joint control arms..........Use urethane bushings in the lower control arms...........and use heim joint strut rods.............

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Soo You guys thing I need to loose my snubber, clamp the front of the springs, un clamp the rear springs,

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Yes, AND install urethane front spring eye and shackle bushings........

Soft sidewall tires will be better than drag radials with a 4-speed, because they'll absorb the shock of dumping the clutch (as most know, shocking drag radials doesn't work).......BUT, it's not like you have a ton of power with the 360, so if it were me, I'd do all the suspension stuff (because you need that anyway) and go to a soft sidewall tire as a last resort.......

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Ok, been at work.

Car has /6 bars, and 90/10 front shocks.

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I'LL SAY IT AGAIN, 90% OF MAKING ONE HOOK IS IN THE FRONT END ........Throw the CE shocks in the trash and buy some Cal-Trac front shocks.......Make sure it's got either urethane upper control arm bushings or heim joint control arms..........Use urethane bushings in the lower control arms...........and use heim joint strut rods.............

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Soo You guys thing I need to loose my snubber, clamp the front of the springs, un clamp the rear springs,

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Yes, AND install urethane front spring eye and shackle bushings........

Soft sidewall tires will be better than drag radials with a 4-speed, because they'll absorb the shock of dumping the clutch (as most know, shocking drag radials doesn't work).......BUT, it's not like you have a ton of power with the 360, so if it were me, I'd do all the suspension stuff (because you need that anyway) and go to a soft sidewall tire as a last resort.......

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BUT, it's not like you have a ton of power with the 360, so if it were me, I'd do all the suspension stuff (because you need that anyway) and go to a soft sidewall tire as a last resort.......

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kasey
If you find the car still moves over during a burnout..
take more time setting tire pressure.
and get a guage that reads in .25 pounds increments..
most times i find a car moves sideways during the burnout..its cause the tires arent air'd the same
if you have a guage that only goes in full pound increments..you could be off from right tire to left tire..this will give you sideways burnouts
and also kill any attempts to get traction..
get or borrow a large face gauge..with 1/4 or better 1/16 lb increments..

on the 6* pinon angle...id just be aware...that you street drive the car and down shift to engine brake...id be a little leary with 6* of pinion angle.. and down shifting..
if you go with 6* and find that it shakes under deceleration...you know were/what that issue is... fwiw.

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CSD, I would have to disagree with you on this, I know the air presure will very but the it has nothing to do with having the same presure in each tire. All tires are not the same hieght even if they are both 275/60/15's...One might be 28" and the other might be 29 1/2. He needs to check the roll out of each tire, take a tape measure and go around the tire and see if they are the same at 18 PSI, if not add air to one and let air out of the other, what ever it takes and to be safe with the presures till the tires have the same roll out or size. This will help the car launch straight and keep the car straigh in the BO box. My ...Phill

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Ok, been at work.

Car has /6 bars, and 90/10 front shocks.

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I'LL SAY IT AGAIN, 90% OF MAKING ONE HOOK IS IN THE FRONT END ........Throw the CE shocks in the trash and buy some Cal-Trac front shocks.......Make sure it's got either urethane upper control arm bushings or heim joint control arms..........Use urethane bushings in the lower control arms...........and use heim joint strut rods.............

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Soo You guys thing I need to loose my snubber, clamp the front of the springs, un clamp the rear springs,

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Yes, AND install urethane front spring eye and shackle bushings........

Soft sidewall tires will be better than drag radials with a 4-speed, because they'll absorb the shock of dumping the clutch (as most know, shocking drag radials doesn't work).......BUT, it's not like you have a ton of power with the 360, so if it were me, I'd do all the suspension stuff (because you need that anyway) and go to a soft sidewall tire as a last resort.......

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with a 4 speed you dont want soft sidewall tires, you want a stiffer sidewall, in fact as stiff as you can get...with a soft sidewall like a drag radial, the initial hit from the clutch wil cause less control and stability and therefore less traction...the stiff sidewall of the bias ply will help to absorb and plant the power while pointing the car straight...thats why stick guys are almost always running tubes as well, anything to help stiffen those sidewalls

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with a 4 speed you dont want soft sidewall tires, you want a stiffer sidewall, in fact as stiff as you can get...

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In his case, I don't agree with that.......That would be OK IF the car was hooking........

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with a soft sidewall like a drag radial, the initial hit from the clutch wil cause less control and stability and therefore less traction...the stiff sidewall of the bias ply will help to absorb and plant the power while pointing the car straight...thats why stick guys are almost always running tubes as well, anything to help stiffen those sidewalls

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That's backwards.......The drag radials he's running have much stiffer sidewalls than Hoosier Quick Time Pros.......

Stick guys run do run tubes to make the soft sidewalls last longer......

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with a 4 speed you dont want soft sidewall tires, you want a stiffer sidewall, in fact as stiff as you can get...

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In his case, I don't agree with that.......That would be OK IF the car was hooking........

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with a soft sidewall like a drag radial, the initial hit from the clutch wil cause less control and stability and therefore less traction...the stiff sidewall of the bias ply will help to absorb and plant the power while pointing the car straight...thats why stick guys are almost always running tubes as well, anything to help stiffen those sidewalls

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That's backwards.......The drag radials he's running have much stiffer sidewalls than Hoosier Quick Time Pros.......

Stick guys run do run tubes to make the soft sidewalls last longer......

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kasey
If you find the car still moves over during a burnout..
take more time setting tire pressure.
and get a guage that reads in .25 pounds increments..
most times i find a car moves sideways during the burnout..its cause the tires arent air'd the same
if you have a guage that only goes in full pound increments..you could be off from right tire to left tire..this will give you sideways burnouts
and also kill any attempts to get traction..
get or borrow a large face gauge..with 1/4 or better 1/16 lb increments..

on the 6* pinon angle...id just be aware...that you street drive the car and down shift to engine brake...id be a little leary with 6* of pinion angle.. and down shifting..
if you go with 6* and find that it shakes under deceleration...you know were/what that issue is... fwiw.

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CSD, I would have to disagree with you on this, I know the air presure will very but the it has nothing to do with having the same presure in each tire. All tires are not the same hieght even if they are both 275/60/15's...One might be 28" and the other might be 29 1/2. He needs to check the roll out of each tire, take a tape measure and go around the tire and see if they are the same at 18 PSI, if not add air to one and let air out of the other, what ever it takes and to be safe with the presures till the tires have the same roll out or size. This will help the car launch straight and keep the car straigh in the BO box. My ...Phill

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I wont agure/disagree with that....

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with a 4 speed you dont want soft sidewall tires, you want a stiffer sidewall, in fact as stiff as you can get...

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In his case, I don't agree with that.......That would be OK IF the car was hooking........

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with a soft sidewall like a drag radial, the initial hit from the clutch wil cause less control and stability and therefore less traction...the stiff sidewall of the bias ply will help to absorb and plant the power while pointing the car straight...thats why stick guys are almost always running tubes as well, anything to help stiffen those sidewalls

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That's backwards.......The drag radials he's running have much stiffer sidewalls than Hoosier Quick Time Pros.......

Stick guys run do run tubes to make the soft sidewalls last longer......

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i dont think i have it backwards...when a radial tire hits with a stick car, the way the chords are wrapped causes a rebound that is detrimental for traction...in a bias ply tire the way the chords wrap absorbs but allows the car to point straight and hook, so there is less "rebound"...Stick racers are always looking for a stiffer tire, which is why tubes are run in them...

i mean i could be wrong here, but this is what i have heard many stickshift guys say, stiffer is better...it is only from this that i can assume that bias plies are stiffer, especially if they have less recoil as compared to drag radials on the same application

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Keep at it but it's not that way.

Wayne, you hitting your head on the wall yet?

Pinion angle, clamps, lower the rear if possible and work the crap out of the front end as suggested. It's a 12.40 ride with the current MPH with everything going your way..

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Kasey... first things first.. Get the motor in the car and take it for a spin.. Your combo sounds an aweful lot like my old combo.. 410 stroker, 4-speed, 391 gears, wrong shocks, etc.. and I have to admit, I chased troubles and inconsistencies for a couple of years..

That combo you have should easily run low 12's and at upwards to 115-119 mph, all depending on how much spin you get at the line.. To put this all into perspective, my combo ran all over the 12's.. From low 12 to high 12 between back to back passes and then one day out of no where, popped in a mid 11..

Tired of fighting (and losing races) with the 4 speed, I got fed up and put in a reverse manual 727 and there has been no looking back.. First pass with the new tranny was a 11.6x and all weekend long, I was within a .25 seconds while learning shift points and etc..

My recommendation to you is to first put 20lbs of air pressure in those E/T's... screw the QTP's, screw the bias crap.. E/T's will work!!!

Next I would launch at 2000 rpm, then 3000 rpm, then 4000 rpm to see which rpm the car liked the best.. After that, play with shift points to see what how the motor works and then once you get that out of the way.. come back here and tell us what happened.. The fine tuning of the car/suspension/launch can only happen after you take the car on its maiden voyage..

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