I'll say it again.......90% of making one hook is in the FRONT END, especially with a drag radial.........How loose is your front end and what kind of shocks????

You're running 106 now, and that's enough for 12.40's with an automatic, slicks, and a 4,500+ converter...........If you want to run 12.50's with a 4-speed, you're going to have to work your butt off.........and by that I mean you HAVE to drive it like you stole it by power shifting and launching pretty high (like 4K+), so you'll need a good clutch.........

BTW, throw the snubber in the trash.......

Get with Ma'Mopar catalog. They have specific long shocks for the SS spring. They are also specific to auto and 4 speed trans as well. My Duster even on the street will only spin about 6 or 8'. It still has stock spring w/these shopcks and no snubber. It is on E/T drags but Ive only played so far w/it onm the street. Thanks, Ken

106 is aenemic for a stroker with those heads...

You need to do some tuning/check for issues.

I think the 106 was with his 360 not the stroker. Where did you guys run? SD? or Kearney/

The rear of your car looks high (I like a high rear and rake to) so you probably need a set of these
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/reshex.html

Oh cal trac 90/10 shocks trim the bump stops so front end has 5 to 6" of travel (rise from sitting)
Unclamp the back of springs last clamp should be maybe 8 to 10" behind axle!

Cal trac Bars with bite!!!!!!!!!

Ok, been at work.

Car has /6 bars, and 90/10 front shocks. Its got 3200 il ss springs in it now. I have a line lock on it, but Its not hoocked up yet. Dont really want to use it if I dont have to. Car has a centerforce dual friction clutch. Its been good so far, But my new engine might kill it. I ran 106 with the ol 360 in it.

We r running Marion SD, and Kearney. WISH SCRIBNER WAS STILL THERE!!!

Thanks guys. Lots of info here. Soo You guys thing I need to loose my snubber, clamp the front of the springs, un clamp the rear springs, and run more PSI in the tires?

Im gonna need a loop for the drive shaft now also. I think the last time I left at 4K with the old 360, I was gonna leave around the same with the new engine.

Much apreciate the help guys...

Kasey

You really want the car as level as possible so it'll trnsfer wqeight easier, mines about a 1" rake, not 3+ inches like most mopars i see, they have all kinds of problems hooking, being a stick car, like said, you'll need to "drive it" HARD to see mid 12s, but it'll do it with a 106 mph, your 60fts. should be around 1.78s or there abouts, i'm running 12.6s @ 104-105 with 60fts. consistant on EVERY pass in the 1.82s, My MTs are at 17 lbs. "cold", so there about 19-20 hot, rim width vs. tire size is also important for a nice footprint, a good footprint & you can run more air pressure, i'm on 7" rims with a 255/60/15, so i have to be careful not to exceed 19 lbs. cold, it won't hook, i've also stated running a snubber for trial basis, its about 1/2" from the floor, I also installed CE shocks up front, beleive it or not, my 60fts haven't changed, 1.82s is where there at in the heat, my best was a 1.79 in early may, i've also install clamps in the front of my rear springs, installed longer shocks, un-clamped the rear straps, & installed a thick spring on both sides, car still 60fts. the same , Now i'm sure once i juice it things will change.

With the rake on your car, you really need the front to be as loose as possible, & have enough lift to overcome the back, this will help, now are you sure you have enough pinion angle?


Look at this video of my car, as you'll see it sits pretty level, notice even on 1.82 60fts. it doesn't transfer a hole lot, this track is tranction limited on some nights do to its prep, i do on accasion squak 2nd., but i'm still very consistant on the 60fts. & that whats important. web page

Well The car doesnt look the same as in my sig, cant remember how to change sig pictures. And the pinion angle is 3 degrees.

Kasey

hook up that line lock!!!!! you need it for a straight burnout and on the line so you don't roll out of the beam's and waste a pass!!!

IMO, with the new motor you will run mid 12's only if you miss shift AND forget to go to 4 gear. The new motor will run 11's with ease.

I agree, more pressure is needed in the drag radials...probably at least 16-18 lbs.

That what I was wondering, how long will U joints last then?

if your car is a stickshift id be done with those et street radials and put on some bias ply et streets (the DOT slicks they sell)...that should definatly help some...bias ply is the only way to go and hook with a stick car...and the traction on the et street is the same if not better than the radial

I might get a set for the track, but I hate how squish a car drives with them on the street.

Id stick the stickem tires on for the track.

Kasey

We run then on the street ALL THE TIME with no problems. Just make sure you have 18-20 lbs of air or more in them when driving on the street.