Re: acid ported intake manifold
[Re: stage3]
#735018
06/27/10 09:26 PM
06/27/10 09:26 PM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,166
Left Coast
BobR
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,166
Left Coast
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Quote:
Looking for anyone that does acid porting on intake manifolds for small block Chrysler. Have got prices on extrude honing and would like to
know what acid goes for and what benefit either offers. Car is not legal for any sanctioned CLASS racing, just want a stock appearing car. Thanks in advance for any help. I have heard of Walters intake manifolds but no contact info.
Be ready to crack your wallet open. If you are porting a 2 plane manifold you are probably just wasting your money.
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Re: acid ported intake manifold
[Re: NoFrills]
#735021
06/28/10 08:50 AM
06/28/10 08:50 AM
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,166
Left Coast
BobR
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,166
Left Coast
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Quote:
my brother used to run a circle track small block chevy that had to have a stock intake and had some some stuff from this guy they spilit the intake port then weld back togeather and hide it all in the end http://www.castheads.com/
Several years ago A local Mopar stock eliminator racer told me that he had about 6 grand into SB thermoquad manifold. He figured that it was worth about .06/2mph.
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Re: acid ported intake manifold
[Re: stage3]
#735022
06/29/10 11:20 AM
06/29/10 11:20 AM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,219
New York
polyspheric
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,219
New York
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What it does: removes material very slowly from the entire interior surface (not just the parts you want, or casting flash and machining errors).
Any area that isn't clean won't get ported.
If you know where you want it ported, mask the other areas with something acid-resistant such as wax. Don't melt wax into the manifold, it won't come off the areas to be ported by scraping. It may get hot enough to melt the wax anyway.
Chemical: for cast-iron, most strong acids will work but very dangerous to handle. Aluminum, you can use lye or acid, but they work much faster. Never add water to acid - you add acid to water.
Put it outside, plug the port runners, leave the flange open and fill with acid. It probably affects the bottom slightly more, as bubbles will tend to follow the walls upward.
Best results: plug everything, and rotate it 90° every 15 minutes for several hours, drain, examine.
Wear rubber gloves, goggles, respirator (not just a mask). Tell someone to call you back, and call 9-11 if you don't answer. Throw away whatever you wore.
Boffin Emeritus
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Re: acid ported intake manifold
[Re: polyspheric]
#735023
06/29/10 12:51 PM
06/29/10 12:51 PM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,493
Taxes & Virus's R-US, NY
Dragula
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 12,493
Taxes & Virus's R-US, NY
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Quote:
What it does: removes material very slowly from the entire interior surface (not just the parts you want, or casting flash and machining errors).
Any area that isn't clean won't get ported.
If you know where you want it ported, mask the other areas with something acid-resistant such as wax. Don't melt wax into the manifold, it won't come off the areas to be ported by scraping. It may get hot enough to melt the wax anyway.
Chemical: for cast-iron, most strong acids will work but very dangerous to handle. Aluminum, you can use lye or acid, but they work much faster. Never add water to acid - you add acid to water.
Put it outside, plug the port runners, leave the flange open and fill with acid. It probably affects the bottom slightly more, as bubbles will tend to follow the walls upward.
Best results: plug everything, and rotate it 90° every 15 minutes for several hours, drain, examine.
Wear rubber gloves, goggles, respirator (not just a mask). Tell someone to call you back, and call 9-11 if you don't answer. Throw away whatever you wore.
The EPA called and said they will be right over..... 
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Re: acid ported intake manifold
[Re: stage3]
#735024
06/29/10 01:33 PM
06/29/10 01:33 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,062
Western New York
sixpackbee
master
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master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,062
Western New York
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The proceedure is pushing the better part of 500. nowadays. Unless you absolutly have to have it its worth is marginal at best.
1959 Bugeye Sprite
1967 Charger Black L code
1967 Coronet R/T Convert Green 440 auto bought from original owner
1968 Charger R/T Bronze 440 4 spd console AM/FM
1969 Super Bee WM21H B5 A40 D21 N96
1969 Barracuda Formula S 340 Convert pilot car
1969 Hemi Road Runner RM23J D32 Omaha orange 4.10 Dana N96 N85
1970 Super Bee WM23N FE5 V1X 3.91 axle package, N96
1970 Road Runner RM21N B3 V1X D13
1971 MG Midget
1971 Road Runner RM23H GW3, A57
1972 Road Runner RM23P FY1, D21
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Re: acid ported intake manifold
[Re: sixpackbee]
#735025
06/29/10 02:10 PM
06/29/10 02:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,513
DFW
mr_340
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,513
DFW
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I remember a Pro Stock racer was letting the car body sit outside to rust and then cleaned it up with muriatic (HCl) acid. I think it was Glidden, but maybe you could do that with your intake. Have it tanked and paint the outside and mask the areas you don't want to rust and let it sit outside for a year or so. My experience with muriatic acid is the metal is very active and will start to rust again immediately after pulling it out and drying it off. NHRA doesn't let you paint the interior of the intakes or any coatings, so it will need to be removed before teardown. Maybe you can find out what Waltrip used on his Tyoder manifold years ago?
Floyd Lippencott IV
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Re: acid ported intake manifold
[Re: mr_340]
#735026
06/29/10 05:05 PM
06/29/10 05:05 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,314
Charlotte, NC
LSP
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,314
Charlotte, NC
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Quote:
I remember a Pro Stock racer was letting the car body sit outside to rust and then cleaned it up with muriatic (HCl) acid. I think it was Glidden, but maybe you could do that with your intake. Have it tanked and paint the outside and mask the areas you don't want to rust and let it sit outside for a year or so. My experience with muriatic acid is the metal is very active and will start to rust again immediately after pulling it out and drying it off. NHRA doesn't let you paint the interior of the intakes or any coatings, so it will need to be removed before teardown. Maybe you can find out what Waltrip used on his Tyoder manifold years ago?
Sterno, heard he had so much in there that they just threw the jets away.......LOL
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Re: acid ported intake manifold
[Re: mr_340]
#735027
06/29/10 05:41 PM
06/29/10 05:41 PM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,219
New York
polyspheric
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,219
New York
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True - any chemicals use must not only be flushed, but neutralized with baking soda, etc. (reverse pH factor). Test water must come back 7.0.
The acid-dipped S/S and steel funny cars all disintegrated into piles of dust, except the one (Landy?) who neutralized his.
It's almost cost-effective in supplies (the acid actually used is much, but you need a lot for the fill), but it's labor intensive and scary to do, and dangerous.
Boffin Emeritus
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Re: acid ported intake manifold
[Re: polyspheric]
#735028
06/30/10 01:23 AM
06/30/10 01:23 AM
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,906
IL, Aurora
ademon
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,906
IL, Aurora
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No acid experience here, but i did modify my 71 340 intake, milled the divider and blended the plenum area, tried best i could to radius the "90's " in the ports, gasket matched also, there was a lot of metal removed just from the gasket match. probably got 30 to 40 hours in the intake and about $20, looked into thermo coatings and was quoted $120 to do the bottom of the intake and the carb flange area but i passed. your best bet is to at least deep port gasket match it.
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