acid ported intake manifold

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Acid was/is? used to cover up the carbide finish left by hand porting.

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Looking for anyone that does acid porting on intake manifolds for small block Chrysler. Have got prices on extrude honing and would like to
know what acid goes for and what benefit either offers. Car is not legal for any sanctioned CLASS racing, just want a stock appearing car. Thanks in advance for any help. I have heard of Walters intake manifolds but no contact info.

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my brother used to run a circle track small block chevy that had to have a stock intake and had some some stuff from this guy they spilit the intake port then weld back togeather and hide it all in the end http://www.castheads.com/

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What it does: removes material very slowly from the entire interior surface (not just the parts you want, or casting flash and machining errors).
Any area that isn't clean won't get ported.
If you know where you want it ported, mask the other areas with something acid-resistant such as wax. Don't melt wax into the manifold, it won't come off the areas to be ported by scraping. It may get hot enough to melt the wax anyway.
Chemical: for cast-iron, most strong acids will work but very dangerous to handle. Aluminum, you can use lye or acid, but they work much faster. Never add water to acid - you add acid to water.
Put it outside, plug the port runners, leave the flange open and fill with acid. It probably affects the bottom slightly more, as bubbles will tend to follow the walls upward.
Best results: plug everything, and rotate it 90° every 15 minutes for several hours, drain, examine.
Wear rubber gloves, goggles, respirator (not just a mask). Tell someone to call you back, and call 9-11 if you don't answer. Throw away whatever you wore.

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The EPA called and said they will be right over.....

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I remember a Pro Stock racer was letting the car body sit outside to rust and then cleaned it up with muriatic (HCl) acid. I think it was Glidden, but maybe you could do that with your intake. Have it tanked and paint the outside and mask the areas you don't want to rust and let it sit outside for a year or so. My experience with muriatic acid is the metal is very active and will start to rust again immediately after pulling it out and drying it off. NHRA doesn't let you paint the interior of the intakes or any coatings, so it will need to be removed before teardown. Maybe you can find out what Waltrip used on his Tyoder manifold years ago?

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