I've got it set on the "Q" setting right now. Switch one on "1" and switch 2 on "7". It's one of the locked start retard curves.

I would not turn on the start retard until you have your initial timing set to start the car.

And as far as the start retard how does this work does it retard the timing 25 degrees 'Q' from initial timing, or does it put the timing at 25 degrees initial when you start the car?

Sorry I have family over today so I cannot hover over the computer.

I'm not exactly sure how the MSD start retard works but...

To start the car you will have to advance and retard the timing until the motor starts.

Let’s say with the retard the car starts at 12 degrees.

Now that the car stated (above 600 rpm) the MSD will put the timing where it really is (+25 degrees for 'q')which is now 37 degrees initial plus you have the timing curve to content with. Well you don’t have time to set the timing because you have to break in the cam!

No, turn off the start retard.



Now that the motor will turn over, go to your first post and change the subject to

'No start... help' or 'No spark HELP!'

Going to double check that I don't have the dist in 180 off. Right now, the dist is pointing to #6, and both valves on #1 are closed. Is this correct, or am I 180 off?

Went to re-re-check. Dist was pointing at (or about) #6 with timing marks at 10 before. When I turned the engine by hand, the #1 intake valve started opening. I'm thinking that's 180 off. Am I wrong or right?

It should not be firing when the valve is opening so if it is pointing at the 6 while the intake is opening you are ok

Correct me if I'm wrong:
If the intake valve is just starting to open, then the exhaust valve just closed, which means the rotor should just be passing #6.
If this is correct, then I have it installed correctly.

This is really starting to get annoying. I've been trying to figure this out for 2 days now. Before I put this engine in, I hooked up the distributor and everything except for the starter to the old engine to make sure it would work so i didn't run into these problems. That obviously didn't work. I'm at a loss now. I can't figure out how there can be power at the coil, and in the cap from the coil, but not getting down the wires to the plugs.

Is there a way to shim Mopar starters? I've never had to do anything special with them before, but I've had to shim Chevy starters. It seems to be engaging and disengaging ok, but I was thinking maybe it's just a little tight, and that could be why it's turning over sluggishly. Anyone around San Diego want to come give me a hand with this?

You know one thing I did not think of (since the battery is in the trunk) was possibility of voltage lost at the coil. Have everything connected like you were going to start it except the wire going to the coil '+' Hook this up to a voltmeter. Actually it can still be connected since the motor won't start.

What is the voltage when the motor is cranking?

If it drops below 9 volts while actually cranking then there is a good chance there is not enough voltage to power the MSD. I cannot remember the voltage required to power a MSD, but I think it was 8.7 and up?

Is the air gap in the distributor set properly? I went to fire up my new 440 a few weeks ago0 no spark. It ended up being the air gap was set at .065- 1/16" It should have been .008 max. when I set it correctly it started up immediately.

I sent the distributor to FBO to curve it and they also put in a new pickup coil and did not set the gap properly grrr...

Line up the reluctor tooth with the pick up. Loosen the pick up screw and insert a .008 non metalic feeler gauge. Set the gap and tighten.

Good luck

FINALLY!!! I got it going. I moved the battery back to the front, changed out the coil, and that's really all. Not sure which fixed it, but I think it was putting the battery back up front. I think it was losing too much by the time it got to the front. I guess the Summit Cables must have too much resistance or something. Hopefully, now that it's broke in, it will have enough juice from the trunk. I'll find out, I guess. Thanks to all your inputs and advice!!

Oh, and might I add, the thing sounds like a BEAST!!! Can't wait to get her out on the road. Sounds like I need to make some minor adjustments to a couple valves, but other than that...SUUUUWEET!!

Once everything is set you can slowly put things back one by one until you find out what the problem was. Please report back as we all like to know.

I'lll post when I figure it out. Haven't had time to work on it much the last couple days and I'm not going to this weekend, either. Probably be the middle of next week.

I just got done moving the battery back to the trunk. Hooked everything up exactly the way it was before in the same locations, and it works now. I have no idea what the problem was in the first place. Tight engine, maybe?