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Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D
[Re: 2fast4yourBrain]
#694224
01/23/11 03:26 PM
01/23/11 03:26 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,054
Roswell, GA - near Atlanta
cloneguy
OP
super street
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OP
super street
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,054
Roswell, GA - near Atlanta
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Quote:
I'm curious...it seems it's more work to do all those tiny butt welds than to drill out the spot welds and mimic the factory spot welds?
Also, when you butt weld, what do you put on top of them after you grind them down? Do you lead or duraglass?
It's a lot more work to do the butt welding but we believe that to mimic the factory spot welds or even using a spot welder, which we do in some spots, is not as good as leaving the factory spot welds in place. There will always be someone who can tell the difference with the spot welds. With a proper butt weld, nobody can tell it was done.
The most important part is not warping the metal. As long as you don't warp the metal, when you grind down the welds, there will be almost no need for filler at all. We spread fiberglass over the ground weld to fill any tiny imperfections or pin holes and then sand 99.9% of it back off. By the time the car is ready for primer, you can't see more than a pin holes worth of fiberglass here and there.
If you are going to try this, practice a lot on scrap metal first. My guy has been doing this forever and he makes it look easy. I'm a decent welder but I can't butt weld without making a mess. Fortunately, I don't have to because I have Mike.
There is certainly nothing wrong with doing the spot weld method if that's what you want.
In my opinion, the guys who don't do butt welding simply can't do it properly this way; it's not as easy as it looks. Truthfully, if your welds crack, body torque or not, you didn't do them correctly because a proper weld is always stronger than the metal around it.
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Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D
[Re: cloneguy]
#694229
01/26/11 02:36 PM
01/26/11 02:36 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
DPelletier
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
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I'm not interested in participating in the  and without calling anyone's preferred method into question, I will point out two facts; - A proper butt weld is at least as strong as the base metal and if done skillfully requires very little (if any) filler. - a simulated spot weld doesn't usually look like a real spot weld. Some people do a better job than others, but I've always been able to tell. Disclaimer; I don't restore cars for a living and nothing I own has ever been in an automotive magazine. I am a sheet metal worker by trade and I own a shop that does an awful lot of sheet metal welding and I have two spot welders in my shop. We work to provide custom panels and patches to several local bodyshops though most of our sheet metal welding is for industrial and institutional specialty ducting. I did work in the automotive industry in my prior career and sold paint and body supplies including reproduction sheet metal as well as Sherwin Williams and PPG products. My bodyshop did a great job on my Superbee, but the one thing they didn't do that I had asked for was to preserve the spot welded seam on the passenger quarter; they installed the new one with simulated spot welds at the factory location....still not happy about that as it's obvious the quarter has been changed now. Oh well.  Dave
1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack
1974 'Cuda
2008 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Ram 3500 Diesel
2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel
2003 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Durango Limited
[url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
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Re: AMCR -70 RR Vert - $18k MAX labor Rolling Chassis D
[Re: DPelletier]
#694230
01/26/11 05:08 PM
01/26/11 05:08 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 321
Rockford, IL
foz
International Diplomat
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International Diplomat
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 321
Rockford, IL
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FOR THE LOVE OF GOD MEN! Please stop arguing. Have a nice day. 
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