I am having a small problem with my 69 Super Bee. When I take it out for a drive, everything is fine until it's fully up to it's normal temperature. At slower speeds, it starts to surge a bit until I give it a bit of gas. Once I let off and slow down, the surging continues. It's not really dramatic, but it is noticeable.
When I am back from my drive, I pull it into the garage and shut it off. If you listen to the carb, you can here boiling. And, once it sits for a few minutes, it smells very strongly of gas.
If it helps, it is hard to start sometimes when cold (and sometimes when it's warmed up).
The engine is built to stock specs with the exception of a slightly hotter cam. I am temporarily running a brand new Edelbrock Thunder series carb while my stock Carter is being restored.
I checked my fuel lines and filter, and they are all located where the factory would have put them. They are not close to heater hoses, exhaust manifolds or the intake manifold.
So, what might be causing this?
All help is greatly appreciated.

Add an insulator spacer between the carb and the intake to help cool the incoming fuel charge. Also soemthing which will help more than that is to use gas that is NOT alcohol blended if poosible. The alcohol boils at a lot low er temperature than even our poor grade gasoline of today.

I had a similar problem with my Eddy carb till i put an insulator gasket under it. Edelbrock makes it. It's about a 1/4 inch thick. Problem is gone now.

I heard the spacer might do the trick. I am running a stock air cleaner and intake (ramcharger hood). Do I have a 1/4" to spare?

Also, could the surging at lower speeds (up to 40 mph, for example) be caused by fuel boiling?

Spacer will help.

I believe felpro makes a valley gasket that blocks off the heat cross over. This will help also.

The mechanical pump acts as a preheater too. It sounds like you want an all stock look, but if you could live without that, an electric pump will help too.

In addition to insulating the carb, a return line to the tank after the pump will help keep cool fuel circulating. The easiest way to do this is with the "3 prong" fuel filter with the return line taking some fuel and any vapor back to the tank. That way, cool fuel will be supplied even at light throttle.

PS. Today's gas boils easier than it did in the 60's and 70's. No problem in pressurized EFI but not good for a carb. With some mods as described it will work fine.

Even if the 1/4" spacer doesn't fit (put a chunk of modeling clay on the air cleaner lid and close the hood to find out) you could always stack as many of the thin gaskets as you can get away with.

How HOT does the intake get? What type exh system is on the car?

Your intake manifold is too hot. As said block ex manifold heat riser open, add a valley pan metal gasket w a blocked crossover hole(s), add a thick felpro ~3/8" spacer under the carb, no gasahol(E10), MAYBE a cooler stat. EDIT and a return line to the tank

I am running stock exhaust.
The intake manifold is getting hot enough to burn off the paint right in the middle of it (where the heat riser attaches).

If the heat riser in manifold gets stuck in the closed position, that can make today's fuel boiling problem even worse.

use a carb spacer and you would have any problems, that or one of those 3/8" fat gaskets. I don't know why people toss a carb on an intake w/o one.

For the record, the exhaust manifold heat thing was removed and the hole was welded-up.

Jetting sounds lean, that's what makes it surge and will cause it to run hot. My

I run E10 (gasahol) in my eddy 1406 on a 318 & no issues. Something is heating your intake and boiling the gas. EDIT what stat/eng temp?