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Thermoquad problem; input appreciated #625878 02/27/10 04:40 PM 02/27/10 04:40 PM
Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,212 Minnesota peabodyracing OP top fuel
peabodyracing OP top fuel Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,212 Minnesota	I've an 84 1 ton Dodge that's my plow truck. Thermoquad had been leaking most of the winter (lots of use with all the snow this year!) and I finally took it apart to put a kit in it. I can't get the drivers side bowl cavity to quit leaking. It acts like a sunk float; runs rich, gas seeps out through the top gasket at the front of the carb. New floats, new needle/seats, double checked the gaskets on the seat, set the float level three times now. At this point I'm appreciably lower than the stated float position spec. with virtually no improvement. Just using the stock mechanical fuel pump. This was the same leak problem I had before I started, except now I've got the rich condition going too. Double checked the step up rods and they're in position and seem to be working. All indications are it's only rich on the driver's side circuit. I'm feeling pretty stupid about now.

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: peabodyracing] #625879 02/27/10 04:46 PM 02/27/10 04:46 PM
Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 11,269 Slantytown DUFFMAN Ask And Ye Shall Receive
DUFFMAN Ask And Ye Shall Receive Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 11,269 Slantytown	3 Possibilities I know of; 1. Bad needle and seat. I know you replaced them, but I had a similar problem when I rebuilt my TQ. After messing around with it for a few days I finally put the old needles and seats back in and the problem went away. 2. O-ring for the primary jet tower? I think that's what it's called. A pair of bosses from the aluminum top that sets in a wells in the plastic bowl. If you don't put the o-rings in at the bottom of the wells the bowls leak and you get a rich condition. 3. The plastic bowl is warped and/or cracked. If you're lucky Demonsizzler will see this post and jump in. No longer taking $h!t from anyone!

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: peabodyracing] #625880 02/27/10 04:48 PM 02/27/10 04:48 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,001 s. e. pa. C calrobb2000 top fuel
calrobb2000 top fuel C Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 2,001 s. e. pa.	hi no need to feel stupid as the quads can be a pain ! they have a history of cracking the fuel bowls and having leaks , might look closely at the plastic section ??? replace it with a spread bore holley maby ??? good luck

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: calrobb2000] #625881 02/27/10 04:58 PM 02/27/10 04:58 PM
Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 2,250 ILLINOIS V volaredon top fuel
volaredon top fuel V Joined: Jan 2008 Posts: 2,250 ILLINOIS	Quote: hi no need to feel stupid as the quads can be a pain ! they have a history of cracking the fuel bowls and having leaks , might look closely at the plastic section ??? replace it with a spread bore holley maby ??? good luck Coming from a Holley hater; NO WAY!

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: volaredon] #625882 02/27/10 06:51 PM 02/27/10 06:51 PM
Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 11,269 Slantytown DUFFMAN Ask And Ye Shall Receive
DUFFMAN Ask And Ye Shall Receive Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 11,269 Slantytown	IMO You're better off with an Edlebrock than a Holley if you want a good street driver. No longer taking $h!t from anyone!

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: DUFFMAN] #625883 02/27/10 06:54 PM 02/27/10 06:54 PM
Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska R RapidRobert Circle Track
RapidRobert Circle Track R Joined: Nov 2003 Posts: 36,041 Lincoln Nebraska	Quote: 1. Bad needle and seat. I know you replaced them, but I had a similar problem when I rebuilt my TQ. After messing around with it for a few days I finally put the old needles and seats back in and the problem went away. 2. O-ring for the primary jet tower? I think that's what it's called. A pair of bosses from the aluminum top that sets in a wells in the plastic bowl. If you don't put the o-rings in at the bottom of the wells the bowls leak and you get a rich condition. 3. The plastic bowl is warped and/or cracked. live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: DUFFMAN] #625884 02/27/10 06:56 PM 02/27/10 06:56 PM
Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 30,451 Florida STAYcation dOoC The village idiot's idiot
dOoC The village idiot's idiot Joined: Jul 2008 Posts: 30,451 Florida STAYcation	Quote: IMO You're better off with an Edlebrock than a Holley if you want a good street driver. Bad Boy ....NO Berry-Bumz(or anyone that is not part of the ThermoSquad) on this topic I will BET it is a sunken float ....a trip to NAPA is in order !

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: dOoC] #625885 02/27/10 09:30 PM 02/27/10 09:30 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 5,270 Missouri M MY340 master
MY340 master M Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 5,270 Missouri	Re-seal jet wells, new o-rings, and new floats if your bowls run dry quickly or gas is puddling in the manifold creating hard re-starts. If it floods while idling/driving it could be needle/seat or float problem. 1970 FE5 Duster 360/904/3.91's SOLD 1973 TB3 SpaceDuster 340/4spd/4.10's SOLD Moparless for now but when the opportunity is right I'll have another one.

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: MY340] #625886 02/28/10 02:26 PM 02/28/10 02:26 PM
Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 14,610 Not2farfromNashville, TN R Rug_Trucker I Live Here
Rug_Trucker I Live Here R Joined: Jan 2003 Posts: 14,610 Not2farfromNashville, TN	I always remove the jet wells and reglue them with JB Weld. Get Brass floats from Napa. "The only thing to do for triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing" "NUNQUAM NON PARATUS!"

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: dOoC] #625887 02/28/10 04:59 PM 02/28/10 04:59 PM
Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 11,269 Slantytown DUFFMAN Ask And Ye Shall Receive
DUFFMAN Ask And Ye Shall Receive Joined: Mar 2005 Posts: 11,269 Slantytown	Quote: Quote: IMO You're better off with an Edlebrock than a Holley if you want a good street driver. Bad Boy ....NO Berry-Bumz(or anyone that is not part of the ThermoSquad) on this topic Does running a TQ make me part of the "ThermoSquad"? I have a '72 340 TQ (6139) on my 318. I was running an Edlebrock 1406 because I was having problems with my tempermental TQ, but I got the TQ straightened out and I'm much happier with the throttle response than I was with the Eddy. No longer taking $h!t from anyone!

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: peabodyracing] #625888 02/28/10 07:51 PM 02/28/10 07:51 PM
Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,212 Minnesota peabodyracing OP top fuel
peabodyracing OP top fuel Joined: Jan 2007 Posts: 2,212 Minnesota	Guys thanks for the input. I'd already reglued the wells, checked for cracks and put new floats in. Couple of you have mentioned O rings. Can you elaborate on location please? I'm concerned I may have missed those. Thanks again.

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: peabodyracing] #625889 02/28/10 08:21 PM 02/28/10 08:21 PM
Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 192 San Jose, Ca. dhkennedy member
dhkennedy member Joined: Jan 2010 Posts: 192 San Jose, Ca.	This web site, 41 pages of info on the TQ. http://www.carburetor.ca/Tech/Carter/tqguide-Vaanth.html

Re: Thermoquad problem; input appreciated [Re: peabodyracing] #625890 02/28/10 08:34 PM 02/28/10 08:34 PM
Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,061 New Mexico D dmerc super stock
dmerc super stock D Joined: Dec 2004 Posts: 1,061 New Mexico	Definitely put the o-rings in. They are the x style rings although I have used standard o-rings also. Thermoquads properly setup are the best carb out there short of all out racing carbs. Great gas mileage when dialed in. Looking down into the phenolic middle section you will notice two wells on each side of the primaries. This is where the o-rings go. Last edited by dmerc; 02/28/10 08:58 PM.

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