Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: mac56]
#608093
02/08/10 07:32 PM
02/08/10 07:32 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675 Columbia, CT
moper
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The diameter of the counterweights is different. the exact number I don't recall... But it ends up being close to .200" off it. I have also used them with no clearance issues. So "your results may vary"...lol Personally I won't use a factory crank anymore when there are cheap alternatives for a better peice that drops in. To have a factory one magged, stroke corrected, indexed, and ground/polished is $400. A 440Source B wedge main/counterweight crank is $600 or so for a new part that is much stronger.
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: CRE2004]
#608101
02/09/10 06:47 AM
02/09/10 06:47 AM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 976 ontario canada
mac56
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OP
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ontario canada
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Quote:
Here's what it looks like after you run the CNC through it to remove that annoying area and radius it....
Nice work, but then you have a reputation for nice work. Was this done so the counter weight didn't have to be cut or were there other facts?
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: mac56]
#608102
02/09/10 08:43 AM
02/09/10 08:43 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675 Columbia, CT
moper
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I had a stock RB crank that dropped in with a minor amount of clearancing where Jim noted in the picture. This is why I say some do fit...
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: StealthWedge67]
#608104
02/09/10 11:36 AM
02/09/10 11:36 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,441 Mo.
supercomp
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Quote:
but even if it fits, what sort of swiss cheese does it look like after balancing it?? The counterweights are not only too large, they're too heavy for the 451 / 470 combo. Cutting them down helps both issues, probobly also helps reduce windage. Just seems like the right way to do it.??
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: supercomp]
#608105
02/09/10 12:31 PM
02/09/10 12:31 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 12,675 Columbia, CT
moper
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I used H-beams and J&Es with the one that dropped it. The rods were not light but the crank still had a few 1" holes in it. Not that I consider that a big deal. But it did make for a bit of work when balancing it.
Well, art is art, isn't it? Still, on the other hand, water is water! And east is east and west is west and if you take cranberries and stew them like applesauce they taste much more like prunes than rhubarb does. Now, uh... Now you tell me what you know.
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: mac56]
#608109
02/09/10 07:34 PM
02/09/10 07:34 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,049 Oregon
AndyF
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Quote:
So then there is no trick to cutting the counter weights is there? Just put in a big a$$ lathe.
There are several tricks to cutting down the counterweights. First off you need to know what dimension to cut it to. Then you need the right fixture to bolt to the crank flange so the lathe can hold the crank. It also works better if you have the right tool to center the nose of the crank. And the last trick is to have the correct type of cutting tool.
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: CRE2004]
#608111
02/09/10 08:38 PM
02/09/10 08:38 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 16,928 NC
440Jim
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Quote:
Here's what it looks like after you run the CNC through it to remove that annoying area and radius it....
That is nice looking.
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: mac56]
#608112
02/09/10 08:58 PM
02/09/10 08:58 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,503 Illinois
CRE2004
super gas
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super gas
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Illinois
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Quote:
Quote:
Here's what it looks like after you run the CNC through it to remove that annoying area and radius it....
Nice work, but then you have a reputation for nice work. Was this done so the counter weight didn't have to be cut or were there other facts?
I've always wanted to do it, so I did I've spent the time going from the lathe to mock up and still having fitment issues so I thought I'd eliminate the real problem. Now I don't have to put a half inch wide chamfer on a crank to keep it from hitting that spot nor do I have to whack the OD unless I want to do a "no holes" balance job. I've also turned the cranks down on some 4.375 combos and had to add a piece of heavy metal which I wouldn't have had to do if I had cut the block rather than the crank. Now If it's a combo that needs clearance at BDC, I only have to turn the crank(or cam cut the counterweight) enough to clear at BDC.
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: 440Jim]
#608113
02/09/10 08:59 PM
02/09/10 08:59 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,503 Illinois
CRE2004
super gas
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super gas
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Illinois
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Quote:
Quote:
Here's what it looks like after you run the CNC through it to remove that annoying area and radius it....
That is nice looking.
Thank you.
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: Oyvind Mopar]
#608116
02/10/10 08:08 PM
02/10/10 08:08 PM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 976 ontario canada
mac56
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OP
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Quote:
There is at least one advantage in keeping the stock crank diameter; it puts the mass out to where it does the best job of balancing against the crankpin forces. To benefit from this advantage you need to cut the corners off the throws, which in total will make a lighter crank, than if it is just turned down. Look at recent Nascar cranks, they are made like this, they even put numbers of mallory metal in the slim counterweight, to save on mass in total. (But it makes no sense if you then bolt a heavy steel flywheel to the crank!) The question is if the machine shop will put the extra effort in the balancing, but it should be possible for a little extra fee to get the holes drilled out in the corners first for balancing the overweight crank. I am luck enough to have my own crank balancing machine!
Thanks for you opinion.
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: Oyvind Mopar]
#608117
02/11/10 12:04 AM
02/11/10 12:04 AM
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 4,209 New York
polyspheric
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master
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New York
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one advantage in keeping the stock crank diameter
That's also the highest inertia for the amount of weight.
Boffin Emeritus
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: dennismopar73]
#608119
02/12/10 07:31 AM
02/12/10 07:31 AM
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 976 ontario canada
mac56
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Believe me I know about debate on just ordering 500 stroker crank. I have been struggling with it for 2 months but I have all the parts necessary for a 470 build except the crank so, not only do I have the cut a factory crank or buy aftermarket dilemma. I also have should I leave these parts on the self for more inches. (that probably won't happen) That brings us to the Canada factor. Some of the prices you guys talk about for having work done is like a dream here. Not sure why but machine work and getting new parts here comes at a substantial cost, This post did answer the real question for me. I didn't realize there was a difference in the bottom of a B block compared to an RB block.(why counter weights interfere) Sorry so long.
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Re: ? about 440 crank in low deck
[Re: mac56]
#608120
02/12/10 06:18 PM
02/12/10 06:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,864 S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
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I bought my crank at a swap meet, www.lsmeng.com magged ground and polished it for a reasonable price with good quality, and I worked the counterweights myself with angle grinder, sandpaper rolls, etc. I have maybe 2 1/2 or 3 hours work into it but spent alot of that time just staring at it. Thought process: factory counterweights are not even close to being round, stock 440 cranks hold up just fine at 7000 rpm even with boat anchor pistons, and I see no reason why the modified counterweights have to be perfectly round either to run the same rpm....especially with 8lbs less reciprocating weight than stock. Not much material needs to be removed to make the counterweights 7.25" diameter (plus or minus 1/16", if modifying them by hand). If you're doing a 1000hp deal ignore all this, throw away all your oem stuff and buy it all brand new. If you're doing a 550-600 deal, though, this will work great.
Rich H.
Esse Quam Videri
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