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Here's what it looks like after you run the CNC through it to remove that annoying area and radius it....

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Nice work, but then you have a reputation for nice work. Was this done so the counter weight didn't have to be cut or were there other facts?

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I've always wanted to do it, so I did I've spent the time going from the lathe to mock up and still having fitment issues so I thought I'd eliminate the real problem. Now I don't have to put a half inch wide chamfer on a crank to keep it from hitting that spot nor do I have to whack the OD unless I want to do a "no holes" balance job. I've also turned the cranks down on some 4.375 combos and had to add a piece of heavy metal which I wouldn't have had to do if I had cut the block rather than the crank. Now If it's a combo that needs clearance at BDC, I only have to turn the crank(or cam cut the counterweight) enough to clear at BDC.

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Here's what it looks like after you run the CNC through it to remove that annoying area and radius it....

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That is nice looking.

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There is at least one advantage in keeping the stock crank diameter; it puts the mass out to where it does the best job of balancing against the crankpin forces. To benefit from this advantage you need to cut the corners off the throws, which in total will make a lighter crank, than if it is just turned down. Look at recent Nascar cranks, they are made like this, they even put numbers of mallory metal in the slim counterweight, to save on mass in total. (But it makes no sense if you then bolt a heavy steel flywheel to the crank!) The question is if the machine shop will put the extra effort in the balancing, but it should be possible for a little extra fee to get the holes drilled out in the corners first for balancing the overweight crank. I am luck enough to have my own crank balancing machine!

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Thanks for you opinion.