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Have the intake shaved.

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Here it comes...

I'd suggest the same thing unless it's an ultra rare intake. In that case I'd pull the heads and have the intake face milled. Can you try/borrow another intake?

What I think is going on is a combination of things.

-More than .004" total taken off the heads throughout their service life.
-Block was decked at some point.
-The end rails weren't cut down to compensate for the head/block machining, and it's keeping the pan from sealing at the bottom of the ports.

Milling the intake is the easiest fix at this point. You may have to do it twice if your first educated guess isn't satisfactory. In your case you want the intake to sit as low as possible while still being able to get the bolts caught.

Spray Copper sealer without the paper gaskets is all that should be needed. IIRC only 2 colors of sealer are recommended for oil contact -- Ultra Blue and Black. I never had any luck with Black and only use Ultra Blue. It does need to cure for 24 hours though.

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Update: Took intake to a machine shop, they milled the intake 10 thousandths, he said it probably would need more. He also said that if i wanted to pull the heads that he would cc the chambers that he would see how much the heads were cut, to determine how much more would have to come off the intake. Reinstalled intake, new gasket still sucking oil, then I went as far to silicone the gasket and it is still sucking oil. Now I have pulled the head off, right where the lower row of cylinder head bolts measured the thickness got .990, I am told that stock is 1 inch. This is 10 thousandths shaved the heads, and rule of thumb is 1.5 for the intake, which already has had 10 thousandths taken off, if I go by these measurements that I have, I would need 5 thousandths more off...Would this make a big difference with it still sucking oil? Or should I have the 5 thousandths more taken off?

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ive oblonged the bolt holes,when the intake is set down ,with a few bolts in it looks like it needs to be cut more.also when i bolt one side first or tighten on bolt,i can see a gap on the opposite side,till all bolts are tightened.im probably gonna end up taking the engine to the machine shop to get the deck height checked unless i can check it my self ??

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ive done all that ,left silicon harded for a few hrs. im using moly rings.every time i pulled the intake off all ports were covered in oil,also before i would pull the intake ,i would pull a plug or two,and they would be covered oil up to the threads.ive used all the silicones in the tubes blue orange and now black,also thread sealent on the intake bolts.man that 383 i have on the stand is looking real good about now.

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Dam you would think when you pull the intake you could see if you had a good seal?? maybe you are kicking the wrong cat after all??? but for that much oil it would have to have
1. no valve seals at all and god awful guides??

2. Is it pulling oil directly into the intake via PVC. I had that problem once the stopper was gone in the PVC but it only smoked on start up and a guy cam over and said it may be A and dam it was??
Guess it would take a drink of oil on shutdown
A vented cap should be on the other valve cover????

have you done a compression test and leak down.

Have you pulled the valve covers to see that oil holes in rocker shafts are down and not up if they are installed up oil sprays all over!! Bin there on one bank at least back in the days before time!!

Is the breather on the other valve cover routed into carb breather too??

Just wondering if you are feeding it oil from two sources???

There is always a source and a solution finding the solution is the journey that is sometimes frustrating!!

How much oil in the oil pan. too much is not a good thing. (I bin there too!)
I assume no porting so no porting into oil??

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when i pull the intake,the silicone around the ports are flat ,on the intake side,but under the valley pan its leaking/sucking under the ports and leaving a visible sign at the lower sectionson top of the valley pan ,that i cant see with the intake on the engine.

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