I'm trying to figure out what throttle cable I need. I have a big block now in my 69 Dart with an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Holley 850 carb. and a Mancini high rise throttle bracket. The car was originally a 225 slant. The 225 cable is way too long so I tried a couple of other cables I have in my spare parts but they are both too long as well. One from a small block Dart (not sure if 2 or 4 bbl) and one from a 71 Charger (not sure what engine). The closest one to fitting is the 71 Charger cable but when I installed it, although everything looked proper under the hood, there is about 2" of extra cable sticking through the firewall at the gas pedal (with the pedal tipped back against the firewall). So I measured the excess and it is exactly 2". The cable overall length from the hole in the link that attaches to the throttle pin to the little ball that attaches to the gas pedal is 21" so it looks like I need a 19" overall length cable So, I've been shopping for a cable but when I see the lengths posted, I'm not sure if those are overall length like I was measuring or the length from the carb to the firewall. Does anyone know how those advertised measurements are taken? Also, if anyone happens to know what cable I need please let me know.

Mancini has them listed by measurement.

I already looked there. Nothing for a big block A-body.

ATP Y161

19.25" according to ATP, square hole

https://atpautomotive.com/accelerator-cable-y-161

ATP Y156

19.5" according to ATP, round hole

https://atpautomotive.com/accelerator-cable-y-156

Closest I can find, Rock auto has them if you can't get them local.

I need the round hole style so I checked the ATP Y156. It doesn't list a 383 Dart as being one of the applications for it. This is why I was wondering how the measurements posted are taken. Plus, 19.5" is still a little too long unless there is some way of mounting the cable to accommodate the extra length.

They don't list anything that old in their catalog. I dug onto my 69 parts manual, the pn for a 69 Dart with a 4bbl 383 is 2899337

https://www.moparmall.com/MoPar-PN-2899337-Throttle-Cable-p/808-398.htm

Your cable may actually need to be longer than a stock 383 dart. The Performer RPM is significantly taller than stock iron. Also you never said whether you have a B or RB engine. 440 is taller than 383.

Do you have the mopar linkage adapter on the 850 holley? Something is weird here. If the cable housing is attached to the firewall and adjusted properly at the bracket ( you do have the correct bracket?) then it should work.

Since your engine is already not stock, have you considered just buying a universal cable and cutting it to length? I've used cables similar to this on on my 440 Dart and my '73 360 truck and they work great.

I for one DESPISE those finger pricking POS's ( No offense meant to you
I would suggest using the existing cable trimming the excess length off and swaging a new end on or use a brrel clamp likely available at you're local hardware store or lawn mower, bicycle shop LINKY

It's a 400 block and I do have the adapter.and a Mancini high rise bracket. As I mentioned, using the 71 Charger cable, when attached to the carb., and clamped down in the bracket it runs to the firewall and looks like I believe it should (not too short, not too long). But, when I got under the dash to connect it to the pedal, the actual inner cable sticks out about 2" past the little hole it goes through in the pedal arm (with the pedal in the full up position).

I thought about shortening the cable but wasn't sure on how to replace the little ball on the end (swaging?). I never saw the cable stop before that is shown in the link you sent. That it is something I will seriously consider. Thanks for the link.

Attach the cable at the pedal end,pull the slack at the carb end and cut and replace the carb fitting with the pedal heigth set where you want it.

Have you adjusted the cable for WOT? Pedal on floor and carb full open?

The Pedal will end up wherever it ends up at closed throttle.

Superglue on the able where you want to cut it usually keeps it together and prevents finger pricks.

I actually thought about that but haven't and probably won't have the chance as I'm pretty much done working on other peoples cars Thanks for the suggestion

It will also allow you to play with the adjustment until you have WOT and an agreeable pedal height as mentioned. I would also make sure there is adequate adjustment and the cable clamp on the manifold.

He will definitely want one that is longer than the stock BB a body cable. I saw a listing I thought somewhere showing the A body length , it's not on the mancini chart though .

71 charger cable has a square plastic end at the firewall , not the steel round one,I thought ?

I seem to recall some swap where the Slant 6 cable was the "hot tip", but they're pretty long...

Herb's has one for 20ish less

https://www.herbsparts.com/proddetail.php?prod=254-AB

Imperial services will do a custom length but it's pricey .

http://www.imperialservices.net/Aparts.html

Yes it was , think it was in Mopar Action before the current crop of available lengths ?

This is the Mancini number. This cable will work. MRE8668

That might be the 6cyl cable , that one is almost 30" total length

That number was passed on to me years ago from another member here. It worked on my B-Body with the hemi and single carb. Should work on any wedge with a high rise manifold. These cable jackets do not run in a straight line from point a to point b. They often have a pigs tail twist that takes up the slack.

As I mentioned in my original post, I tried my original 6 cylinder cable and it is way too long.

I think I have an old 6 cyl. cable in the garage. I would be happy to measure it for you.

Thanks. I'd be curious to see if it is the same length as the one from my car.

I will look for it in the morning .

Post some pictures of what you have going on. This is done every day with available mopar cables and they do not need to be cut.

What application 6 cyl cable do you have?
I converted my d150 with the/6 from a 1 bbl to the super 6 and my original cable is now too long. I have been told that I need to get a cable for a small block in a d 150 to work with the BBD.

I just measured my cable. It was about 24" long. I had this on my 440 in the 64. I think I had a Weiand intake with a 2" spacer at the time.

I still haven't figured out my throttle cable issue. Here are some pics I took today. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. These pics are with my original slant six cable installed. The third pic shows how much extra cable is inside the car. The heel of the pedal is just about resting on the floor. If I lift the pedal up so it is in the full up position, you can see how much cable hangs out of the little hole in the pedal arm in the fourth pic. I tried loosening the clamp on the throttle bracket and slid the metal sleeve back toward the firewall some and clamped it back down but it changed nothing. What am I doing wrong? BTW, the cable is 24" long.

Seems to me that moving the cable jacket rearward in the intake bracket would effectively take up the slack at the pedal end, wouldn't it ?
In other words, pulling more of the cable forward inside the jacket.

As I mentioned, I tried that, It didn't change anything.

It has to.

edited because of brain fart.

I’ve been researching something similar. One thing I’ve noticed across the various cable lengths that are available, they all provide 2.25-2.5” of stroke at the throttle arm when the jacket sleeve is clamped in the correct position.

If you position the jacket under the clamp so that you have 2.25 of stroke at the throttle arm, does that change anything?

If you have to clamp on the plastic portion of the jacket to get 2.25 then something is amiss…..but you knew that.

The factory overall inner cable length should adjust fine. If it's loose at one end it is because either the throttle cable bracket is to far forward. Or the pedal assy is bent (unliklely). Who's bracket is it? I always make my own. The only issue with using a factory long cable like a 6 cylinder is you may hae to loop it a bit behind the left head. The relation ship between th einner length and the outer casing of all factory cables i ssimilar enough to allow adjustment. I can cut and weld it for you if you need. Get a measurement of where it needs to be. I'm in Waterford Mi. Just finished one for the turbo Duster project I'm working on.
Doug

You just solved my problem and hopefully the OP’s as well. I have a similar bracket as the OP and I think I can just weld an extension on the existing tab and move the clamp stud backward about an inch.

x3 But you might need more than that bracket can provide.

Exactly , in the picture it's too far forward , loosen the clamp and pull it back till all the slack is taken up, if that puts it off the clamp location then the cable you have is too long for that mounting bracket design. But to me that cable looks a bit too long, what is the length of the jacket itself ?

His pedal may have an issue , I don't remember it being that close to the firewall at rest ?

The bracket looks like AndyF's AREngineerings' bracket ....