Re: Torsion bar install question
[Re: ackpht]
#3194266
11/29/23 08:30 PM
11/29/23 08:30 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,235 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
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I Live Here
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Looking for a way out of Middl...
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Yes he is correct, never put a tool to the bar that can scratch it like vise grips or pliers. A scratch can start a crack and that isn't good. The OEM tool is great but I was too cheap to buy the tool. My method for removing them is to remove the nuts on the strut bar and LCA pivot and pry the lower control arm back with a pry bar between the front of the LCA and the K frame. To get the LCA off the end of the T Bar if it is stuck I use a rubber mallet on the LCA socket while holding the T bar. To install the T Bar I use two methods depending on if one doesn't work. I will hang the LCA with the Strut in place but nuts loose and push the T Bar in from the back. To drive it home I use a rubber mallet and a wood rod like a broom handle to drive the back in. I have also stuck the front of the T Bar through the rear and installed the LCA on the T bar. Then slid them into place with the same wood rod/rubber mallet to drive it in. That method is a bit harder because you also have to get the strut rod to cooperate as you install it. I can not remember a specific reason I did it that way but I have several times. It works well on the ISO suspension cars where the strut bar bolts to the top of the LCA not through it like the early A, Early B and E bodies. Tool or no tool always clean out the crud in the T Bar sockets Before removing the bar and grease before installing the bar.
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Re: Torsion bar install question
[Re: IMGTX]
#3194293
11/29/23 09:30 PM
11/29/23 09:30 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,958 SW Fla.
CYACOP
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 3,958
SW Fla.
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I took 2 short 2x4's cut a shallow groove length wise on each with a circular saw and C clamped them together pinching the torsion bar between them and hit the bottom block with a hammer and knocked them right out.
Last edited by CYACOP; 11/29/23 09:31 PM.
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Re: Torsion bar install question
[Re: A12]
#3194295
11/29/23 09:31 PM
11/29/23 09:31 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,424 Omaha Ne
TJP
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I Live Here
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Omaha Ne
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Say or reads noting about angle or position when installing the torsion bar(s) in a factory shop manual it does but in a different area. See post above yours Thanks seems I was trying to convert the only shop manual torsion bar info I found to a format I could post and didn't see your post . back at you. I had a bit of trouble finding it myself and putting 2 and 2 together . They obviously didn't anticipate us rebuilding the entire front end when they wrote the book
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Re: Torsion bar install question
[Re: 6PAX]
#3195154
12/03/23 04:09 PM
12/03/23 04:09 PM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,235 Looking for a way out of Middl...
IMGTX
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 12,235
Looking for a way out of Middl...
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Glad you got the Ballon seals on. I was going to suggest you practice on a bannana.. I have never torn one but I only remove them to install new ones. New ones are usually tough enough. Never tried poly boots though. 80 or 100 is fine. There are lots of new cars that are less than 50. The taper in the hole/stud does most of the work anyway. I suggest before you put the nut on you take a straight pick and turn the ball stud to point the hole forward to backwards relation to the spindle. Easier to install and remove the cotter key that way. I torque them to close to or at the spec and turn the nut to line up the cotter key holes. Never had a problem. .
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